Right on - the 2N3055 does the job - all fixed. After proper adjustments, it runs really cool (temperature) - it's not even warm! While I was in there, I replaced the burnt-out stereo light with an LED - bad move!! This is one of those rare times where an LED does not substitute well. Voltages on the Decoder PCB are all over the place, and Stereo

There are 2 standards for FM signals in the Western World (I have no idea what the Asian standards are): In North America, the station frequencies are much further apart, so a radio manufacturer can get away with putting wide, cheap, and "sloppy" (280-400KHz) filters in their radios. In Europe (including Africa and the Middle East), the station

Mika, The narrower filters improve the clarity tremendously, because you are not getting interence from adjacent stations. In fact, in AutoRadios, which have to deal with rapidly changing signal reception conditions, 150KHz filters are the standard today. 150KHz is the minimum optimum for good stereo reception - but that does not mean that you need

Hi Mika My personal preference is for the old style tuners, with the coils, instead of ceramic filters. The ceramic filter was introduced to save costs. I have restored a number of 1950's Grundig and Saba tube radios (not B&O ) with coil filters, and they ALL have far superior reception to modern radios. The 10.7MHz ceramic filters of those

I've done some research, and both Motorola and SGS give the 2N3055 as the nearest replacement for the 2N5034. OK, so that's one thing cleared up, but I'd still like to know what these RCA 60465's are, and why specifically these with shunt resistors were used. AFAIK, shunt resistors (in Bipolars) are used to smooth out pulses, like in

Hey Martin - Thanks! I know the old rectangle types to which I think you're referring, but see the picture - these definitely look like TO-3's to me! Perhaps this is a later version, with these RCA 60465 unknowns. I can't open up the resistor to check visually , but my Peak DCA Semiconductor tester claims that there's a shunt there,

Hi all. My BM1600 (1973 model) type 2113, started running hot at the rear heatsinks. I replaced the bias trimpots, and adjusted for 16mV idle current across the 0.39ohm resistors for the left and right channels. It worked OK for about 1/2 hour, and then the channels started cutting out. I connected it via a 150W series lamp on the AC mains, to monitor

The diode was a Germanium AA143, crosses to NTE110A. I have one AA143 left, if by chance, it is the same diode. But remember, a Germanium diode has a normal Vf of about 0.25V, whereas if you saw that value on a silicon rectifier, it would be faulty. Menahem

http://www.schallplattennadeln.de/ They rebuild/retip B&O cartridges Menahem

Loris, 24V LED's: No 24V LED's available - if you consider that an LED is in fact a diode, then you can understand why the chances of ever having a 24V Diode are pretty near impossible. The first diodes were Germanium, in the 1950's and had a Vf (Forward Voltage) drop of about 0.3-0.5V. Silicon diodes, developed later, were more stable,