You will need a new cartridge too - only the SP1/2 fit the ST/P arm. Frede commissioned Axel to make a bespoke one for me with an elliptical stylus.

My goodness! You do seem to find things quickly! It took me years to get my 3000 up to spec. You will need a new lid though! The original will not fit. I had a couple made from Frede and myself with a cut out to allow the record player to be used with the lid on.

Also wrong on a number of counts! The original Beo4 was actually rather horrid plastic. The later ones reverted to zinc and aluminium. They have always been about £150.

It sounds as though the carriage rail is too high. On the later decks, this can happen though I have not seen this on an 8000 and I no longer have one to play with to test this theory. They are a bit of a pain to take apart and put back together - nothing like as easy as the 4000 - I wonder if maybe the chassis is not sitting properly.

Interesting - I always thought my S80s were dull but Tim recapped them and swears by them. I confess to preferring the earlier Uniphase range generally. They could be regarded as a bit bright - maybe they would suit you better?

Must confess to being a little concerned about your woofers! My S120s had a fair amount of movement - as you know I actually replaced the units , not knowing that one could get them repaired. It is the same unit as used in the MS150 and M150 and when I have used these speakers, the bass unit moves pretty well - I use flat controls as well.

Nice find. The Beomaster will definitely need new capacitors and no doubt some of the variable resistors will have drifted and will need replacing (as they will break when adjusted!) The Beogram will also need some capacitors and probably a tacho disc though it may have already been done if it plays at 33. The tangential arm will probably just need

Andy has my Acoustical 3000 - I found that it was good though not as good as the Thorens. Still has good bass and the motor is the same so is excellent. Not quite as heavy as the Thorens - looks a bit like a bigger 1000 in some ways. I am less convinced about the isolation in the deck. The arm seems less well mounted. But yes, you should have bought

You need to find the link frequency (799 in your case) and then save it as P60. In my LX you have to assign different sources to different frequencies but it would seem the later MX is simpler.

It has to be said that that is only what I understood (one of my pages!) - the Acoustical version certainly appears in the UK manual rather than the Thorens version and I believe Holland used this deck as well.