At the very least, clean and lubricate the bearings, as shown here. http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/t/12646.aspx Also, although you might think it easy to replace your speed indicator bulb with another, you'll find that the white housing is deformed from the bulb's heat. I replaced mine with yellow LEDs, as described in the same posting. Those

Doug, The BeoGram 4002s are solidly built, mechanical masterpieces, well worth keeping in good repair. Most of their defects are well-known, and the fixes available, as long as you're technically capable. Let us know their condition, and symptoms of any problems when you get them. Menahem

Hi CookieFox There are a number of possible causes, and you did not indicate how technical-able you are. It may be a bad on-off switch, it may be a bad solder joint on the PCB, and it may be a bad flyback with associated HOT, or bad capacitors. You really need to have some technical knowledge, and some test equipment to do the proper troubleshooting

Martin, Thanks for an exact answer! Now, carrying on the same train of thought, if one wants to connect this BeoGram to the BC9000 PHONO input with full functionality, theoretically we have to get rid of one of the RIAA amps, either in the BeoGram or in the BC9000. I seem to remember that the BC9000 has an RIAA "module", which may be easily

Depends what you define as "work". The BG will "work", but not as generally intended, if you connect to the PHONO input. It will provide loud, distorted sound, because the PHONO input is amplified, therefore this PHONO input requires a device with UNamplified output, to be connected to it. As the BG 7000 has a built-in amplifier

Very Very Very Very Very Very NICE!!!!

Hi to all BeoFans, I received this BeoCord 5000 Type 4922 for free (something which doesn't happen too often), after it had been in storage in very bad shape, with lots of rust damage on the casing. It was going to be tossed in the garbage dump. I'm not a great fan of cassettes (although I have a large collection), and would not actively pursue

I forgot to mention - This can also be due to a too-low voltage-condition in the system, and there is one main culprit for that. On the main control PCB, under the platter, at the top left is D2 - a 24V Zener diode. If you have less than 22V on D2's cathode, replace the diode - 1N4749. Menahem

Loris, Did you ever get this working? I have just restored another BG6000 - type 5505, identical to yours, and among the many other problems, there was no sound from the left-front and left-rear channels. Voltage, yes, but the scope showed no sound. The problem turned out to be a cold solder joint on C12, the timing capacitor on pin 9 for IC2 - LM565CN

I've just been through this same fault on a BG6000 I finished restoring today. I'll write it up in more detail on a separate thread, but in my case, it was caused by the tonearm not being aligned exactly 90degrees (even 89.5degrees is not good enough!), which caused the slitted metal shield (on 0R1, at the right-end of PCB3), to not line up