Hey guys, I recently acquired a nice looking cdx. There was an issue with the door not closing properly. When you'd hit play the door would try to close further. After adjusting the door mechanism inside I've fixed that. Now however when I touch play I just get the question mark on the display. In the user manual it gives some minor reasons

Hey Emmanuel, you are definitely right about the design as a whole system. I think many times though these designs are also used to make up for the shortcomings inherent in the speakers though. In other words if a manufacturer is using a woofer that doesn't have a frequency response as good as they'd like in the lower range, they may slightly

Peter I'm surprised that as a true b&o enthusiast you even had to think for a moment before knowing the true answer. You need only to stop and ask yourself, "If Peter and Svend were in my situation, what would they do?" Whatever you decide the answer is, is true b&o :-) Austin

When you ask about "original drivers" you have to remember that b&o probably didn't make any of those drivers. They were likely 3rd party. The mid range drivers and tweeter would probably be the easiest to replace as b&o cheaped out a little here and just used metal clamps on the back of the housing to hold the drivers against

Sorry 355f, I had forgotten about the initial JVC and Sharp 120hz panels. I was focusing more on the difference between Samsung and Sony, the two panels that were constantly in debate in late 2007 as to which was the best 120hz panel on the market. I haven't heard anyone argue before that panels like the sharp LC46D82U are actually better than the

Samsung LN-T4671. Samsung produces their own panels so the technology is always going to be on top when it comes to panels. Samsung was the first flat panel maker with true 120hz image interpolation (Sony licenses it from Samsung and only applies it in one axis). The interpolation isn't at its finest yet, but the point is its there. I really don't

Worst case scenario you can just use a good external non-B&O amplifier to power the pentas. Although if you're good with electronics it's always worth grabbing the service manual from this site and trying to troubleshoot them. Austin

Just some advice guys if you're thinking of painting it. Use very very light coats, and just keep applying them. You can always put another coat on, but if you apply too much in one coat you'll see unevenness or even running. Also, you'll probably want to do a very light sanding (maybe 1000 grit sandpaper) before the first coat to help the

Well in regards to a BR player, I think you should consider that when BR was newer, the PS3 actually had the highest quality playback. I haven't bothered to check to see whether it'd still on top, but the point is we know it's good. Sony knew from the start that the PS3 would be the major showcase of the new BR format. They wouldn't

As kevin and Peter said the finish is likely an anodized coating with a clear lacquer over it. This means you can't polish it out. If you really really wanted to do the work, you could probably strip everything down to bare aluminum and then polish the bare aluminum to a mirror finish again. I wouldn't bother unless the scratching was bad though