The TIP 141/146 transistors should be fine. I meant the bipolar electrolytic caps before. It's quite normal for the Beomaster 6000 to run a bit warm at the right side cooling fin where the power supply regulators are. I use normal radial caps to replace the 4-pin caps in the power supply, fit the positive lead to the center pad and the negative

I never noticed the driver transistors becoming warm like that but I may not have felt much on them. I still feel that the current is a bit on the high side but I don't have one to compare with at present and it might be correct. What type of bipolar caps did you fit ? Martin

180mA does sound like a lot. I would've expected around 50mA or something like that for a reasonable idle current, are you sure that 180 mA is correct ? Are the amplifiers fed a signal (maybe just noise) or are the inputs grounded ? With no signal, the output stage transistors should normally not get warmer than your hand regardless of the amount

I'm afraid it's not an off-the-shelf size like the ones, I've seen sellers on Ebay provide very cheaply. I've replaced a couple of them already and also replaced a motor or two with badly worn bearings on Beograms coming in for repairs here. Some of the belts are simply too small, pulling the subchassis enough towards the motor to see

Hej Allan, Enhederne er jeg interesseret i. Kanterne fra Holland må du forsåvidt gerne beholde (sælge eller smide ud). Det synes at være lidt forskelligt hvad der kommer derfra (?) men de har som regel det tilfælles, at de ikke (eller kun næsten) passer i B&O. Jeg har afmonteret adskillige... Jeg sender dig en

Curiously, the CD players that usually gets the most positive comments are the older ones, that is Beogram CDX and CD50. Their sound is so warm and pleasant. The CDX is merely a 14 bit machine and the way the CD50 is built will have you stop and wonder why it works. I may be biased towards the older stuff anyways, but my own feeling is that the newer

I'm afraid, I don't. Are you sure, it can't be repaired ? Can you post a photo of the damaged part ? Martin

Capacitors would be the first thing to check. See if one or more of the large cans near the transformer (large metal lunchbox) is leaking or bulging, it's visible from below with the bottom plate removed. Next, replace the capacitors on the amplifier board, that's the center board carrying two identical but mirrored circuits. A cap kit is available

The alu lid has a machined groove at the underside and slides in from the side onto the hinge piece and locks into place with two flat plastic keys that also fits in the groove. Most machines have a tiny pressing to the alu to fix the keys in place, which makes it a bit difficult to take apart. Sounds like you will need to replace either the hinge piece

The SEAS drivers are probably some of the best you can buy for any DIY project but check the T/S values; They require a cabinet volume (Vas) of 162 litres where the original Philips will do with only 66 (!) Qms; SEAS 2.34 & Philips 1.28 = far off. I wouldn't buy them for this project. Besides, at the kind of money you would be spending on the