Why don't you ask me if I have a spare PS from a tangential? Chris.

If the seller has no idea what a platter is, what chance is there of him knowing how to lock the transport screws??? In my experience the radial turntables of this type generally arrive as a box of scrap even when the greatest care is taken with packaging. If I can't collect then I won't bid. Chris.

You can get 2 X RCA to DIN plugs but they must be wired correctly, ie:- 2 X RCA to pins 2,3,5. Pin 2 is common L&R ground (earth) pins 3 & 5 are left & right channels. Sounds like yours is wired 1, 2 & 4 in which case you would get exactly what you describe. Chris.

Interesting how you can take 3 very desirable products (B&O, Diamonds & Gold) & turn them into something so incredibly tasteless. I'll wait down at our local tip for when the buyers of this rubbish get bored & decide to sling it. Chris.

[quote user="Peter "] Silly question. Are the transit screws fully undone? I have had wooden floors and never had that problem. [/quote] Exactly what I thought as I read through this thread. Records shouldn't skip just by walking past due to the internal supension. The 3 transport screws are located under the platter which should be "springy"

Well to put it another way, I once saw a mint pair sell for £1,200 These look in just as good condition - just noticed the DIN plugs have been butchered off which seems strange as the sellers other items include some matching BV5000's. You'd assume they were bought to be used with them. Chris.

True enough Martin. If only I hadn't typo'd what I have, it's actually a Beocenter 2800 NOT a 1800 I just don't have the room for it or the time to mend. The sound is really good - built around the BM1500. Chris.

£650 ish.....

No cartridge. The tone arm doesn't lift (usual brass pin lubrication problem which I don't have the time nor inclination to fix) but fully working other than that. The black aluminium part of the lid hinge assembly is a bit rough. Or I can break for parts for anyone who needs the sliders/turntable motor etc.... Parts are interchangable with

The 3rd leg of the capacitor will probably be a tag on the outer capacitor casing to hold it to the board to combat the effects of vibration. You can simply glue the new cap in place before soldering to compensate for this. Boards are usually marked on the solder side with 2 thick lines (within a line showing the track of a capacitor) facing each other