Thanks for the links. I should have assumed that the topic had come up before. I have a pair of BL8000s with the BL2, and the BL6500 sounds great with that setup. I just hate to see such a fine amplifier sitting idle while the speakers do all the work Thanks Again, Rob

I am currently using a pair of BL6000s on my BM6500. I was wondering if it is worth it to use the BM's built in amplifier on a pair of passive speakers (instead of the active BL6000s)? The BL6000s are a bit lacking on the lower end. Any thoughts on using a pair of RL140s and how they might compare to the BL6000s? Or active versus passive speakers

I do not have much technical input to offer here, as I have never had an issue with my BS9000. Unless, you are missing the PIN... but I think mine will play for a few minutes without the proper PIN. I was a bit surprised to see a member with no rating flaming a top 25 and top 50 contributor. From the posts I have read by Graham, he seems like a very

I was looking at the wrong parts list :). The correct part number is B80 C3700/2200 I replaced the rectifier. The fuse still blows as soon as power is supplied. I unplugged P14 and P15 to isolate this part of the circuit - and still the fuse blows. Now I just need to find out what is shorting to ground....

After a little probing, it appears that the rectifier (D3 on the circuit diagram) is bad. According to the service manual, the part number is BA423. I am having a bit of trouble locating the part. Does anyone have a suggestion?

There are two resistors (one each) running from the negative terminal to the chassis. There is a single capacitor between one of the positive outputs to the adjacent negative output. According to the stripes the resistors are both: 65300 (Ohm) with +/- 2% tolerence In the picture I submitted earlier, you can see one resistor in series with the cap leaving

By any chance, do you have a photo of a 110V model? Looking at the wiring diagram, the wires on the input side "appear" to be correct (for a 110 model). However, it looks like someone attempted "clean" the signal from one of the output terminals by running a cap to ground in series with a resistor (all of which I plan to remove)

Peter, Is the picture you provided of a 240V version? Thank you, Rob

Perfect! Thank you!!!

Thank you for the quick response. I have attached a picture. I do not have anything to compare it to, so I do not know how "modified" it is.