This guy will ship two for $235 delivered. Mine arrived in 6 days. He has 12 left. DelphiNJ at aol dot com You can convert your beolab Pentas back to beovox and keep the display if you want rid of the bottom bit. Should be a doddle to fit the board into the 150/200 base as well if that takes your fancy. It's been a couple days and the sound quality

Erik-nl - My initial attempt used a figure-8 power connector (like on printers) and I had a seriously bad earth loop. I ended up fitting an IEC plug (pc, kettle type) though that meant finding a right angle lead as space is tight. In other words YES. Been playing them today and they really are awesome. The sound is so tight and precise. Still got to

No metal inside the cabinet and all my points are insulated fine. I also added cable wrap around most cables. Obviously should only be attempted by those with common sense... :)

A mate came over yesterday whom has no knowledge of good quality audio. I asked him to play a track he thought would stretch the speakers and see what he thought. I can't remember what he chose right now but on one he commented he hadn't heard it that way before. I thought he meant he had a remix or original. No, he meant the sound. In his words

Eyelet 3.2mm Maplin JH60Q (for ground connector) IEC320 chassis plug Maplin HL15R Right angled IEC wire Maplin AP08J LED - Maplin high efficency dual (can't find order code but it's easy to find) Hints: Use the glue gun on any wiring joints you suspect as being weak. I purposely designed the conversion the way I did so that any board can be

On the middle board cut a red and black wire and fit a connector as shown. It doesn't matter which you cut. The speaker output from the IcePower will fit to this. Stick what was the right board into the middle, hook up all the wires back up. Insert the IcePower to the right. Push as far as you can, it will go snug against the bass-reflex port at

Forgot to mention, the picture above shows the ground connection in the middle of the board. You'll need a small eyelet and nut/bolt. This is essential or your will have an earth loop (hum).

Get your drill out and fit an IEC kettle plug to the base. For the lead you'll need a right angle one available from Maplin for £4.99 each. Part number at end of HOW-TO. Also fit a phono socket to the side. You can solder up the wires trimming them as necessary to the new connections at this point. Keep the wires tight; there is no need for

The icepower board has connections as follows; far right; speakers (left is +) middle; input and signal sense (right is +, one next to it is -, pin 4 is sense and should be connected to +) left is mains (any way round AC) Solder wires directly and use heat shrink especially on the mains connection. I used cheap speaker cable to do the middle and right

Remove the bottom covers and plastic part. Cut the B&O connector wires :) Pull the right board out and flatten all the reverse component legs. These are quite long from the factory. Use a glue gun to dab over them, thus making the reverse of the board insultated. This last step probably isn't necessary but I felt better for having it so close