Hi Everyone, I have a somewhat strange problem with my BM8000. A few months ago I exchanged all capacitors and trimmers in the output stages after I fried the TIPs in the right channel trying to adjust the no-load current with the original corroded trimmer (after I bought it it ran pretty hot on that channel). After the repair and replacement of the

I think this is probably identical to my BC9000: To open the case, you simply loosen the two screw at the back, and flip the housing open towards the front like a clamshell. Good luck! Rudy

I ran it now for some time, and it seems things are stable...I also noted that when I run the A/C in our house the power supply heat sink is much cooler...I guess we could call that the 'Florida effect'...;-). Thanks again for your help and input! Rudy

In the meantime....I put the output stage back in and ran it. It seems it is working properly now...the BM sounds quite nicely. I noticed, however, that the power supply heat sink is getting pretty warm after a while. I checked the four electrolyte capacitors. They all have ~0.1R ESR, i.e. should still be o.k. (do not have the right sizes to replace

oops...caps: I used standard aluminum electrolytics from newark.com. They seem to work nicely in my BM 8000...

I used TIP 141/146 that I still had lying around from my BM 8000 "fry"...They are listed as alternates for the BDV64/65s that were in there...I hope that was not stupid. Seems the TIPs run at the same temp as the BDVs that are still in the other channel...Unfortunately one cannot easily measure the currents going into each side individually

PS.: Nothing was connected to the signal inputs except jumpers to connect the signal entry PCB ground traces of both channels to the main PCB ground connected to the power supply plug. This seemed o.k. to do since the respective pins of the plugs (currently dangling out of the receiver...;-) are directly connected when measuring resistance between the

Hi Martin, Thanks much for your (as always) valuable input! With regard to the drawn current (as measured on the two power supplies' amp meters), my BM 8000 output stage drew 100mA when bench testing it after replacing the TIPs in one channel. Here I got 180mA, but for both channels...so maybe not all that bad. I am certain that I adjusted the two

Hi Vintage Community, My now working BG 4004 appears to need a new drive belt. The one I have measures ~2 x 17 1/8" (i.e. 34 1/4" circumference) in relaxed state (gently pressed flat against a yard stick). How long is a "fresh" one supposed to be? I am also wondering if anyone already identified a 'generic belt source' where

Hi Workbenchers! I just restored a Beomaster 6000 output stage (right channel burnout). After replacing the four main IC's and putting in new trimmers on both sides, I decided to fire it up on the bench separated from the BM using two regulated power supplies. After spending about three hours to figure out that one needs to connect the ground leads