Ok = Sounds like you are getting to grips with it. Have you checked all the PSU voltages yet? Before you actually start changing components, can you do the voltage checks and note them all down for me, please? I am particularly interested in the 16v supply at pin 11 of 2IC4 and even more so the volts on pin 8! If we go about it logically, we will have

Ok = The paste you refer to is Heat Sink Compound. Clean the old stuff off and re-apply the new compound liberally - it is essential for heat transfer from the semi-conductor to the air via the heat sink. The caps you refer to do not have to be replaced by ones from the same manufacturer - as long as you replace with the same values (same types) and

If you are replacing D28, I would follow Martin's advice and replace C55 and C56. = Brian

A bit more! As an example, consider this: Look at 2IC4 - if the 16v at pin 11 was low or very low, you could disconnect the 16v at pin 11. If then the 16v comes back to normal, you would consider the chip as very suspect or some of its associated components, particularly C30. However, if the 16v was still down, C29 would be the likely culprit or the

Ok I see where you're at. Can you read the circuit diagram? If so, print off Diagram B. In order to eliminate a real nasty (a faulty 2IC6), you need to see if the DC volts vary on pins 9 and 10 of 2IC4, and you need to resolve the MUTE circuit. If these are ok, then 2IC6 would appear to be ok because the Volume Display board does what it is supposed

Hi again = You need to check out 2IC4 - it's a Dual DC Controlled Stereo Potentiometer. When you operate the volume control, you should see the DC volts varying at pins 9 and 10. Check the 16v and 33v supplies and the circuitry round the IC, particularly the electrolytic caps - note the two non-polarised ones C33 and C34. If you can get hold of

Hi there = As a start for the moment, check the capacitor between IC4 and chassis, the MUTE transistor (TR200) and the A/F output hybrid chip IC1, perhaps by replacement. See what happens - let us know. = Brian (Northumberland) Also check 2R50 - it appears to be a pre-set which sets the volume o/p.

Hi Jeff = Conentrating on the crack for the moment - any crack in the copper track, however fine, must be repaired. Its fairly easy - clean the copper and bridge the 'gap' with solder taking care not to short other tracks, but make sure the electrical connection is sound. If u are not experienced at this, practice a bit - u will soon get the

Hi there = Is it the 5000 Tuner or the 5000 Tuner/Amp? It sounds as though u need to repair that crack in the main cct board. Can u do this sort of thing - its not too difficult? Has any of the copper track cracked? Give me some more info. = Brian (Northumberland)

Hi again = Is it the 5-way con from/to the Data Link board (pcb2) that is the problem? If so, you can easily trace the cons from pcb2 to the main board - the 5-way con strip is there right in the centre (almost). If you look in the Service Manual 1-4 its there - if your eye-sight is good, you should have no problem! Let me have some feedback. = Regards