And why would that stop you using led's? Notice I said led(s) as you would need two or a multiple of!

I very much doubt that Soren! Not even sure if these were off-the-shelf or custom made for B&O (somehow I would not be surprised!) If it failed on mine I would be very tempted to replace with a couple of orange LED's tbh. I doubt you would notice the difference!

Someone please buy this my trigger finger is itching and I can't really justify atm But seriously I am surprised it hasn't sold already!

[quote user="filip_kbh"] I just opened the record deck and it reveals a loose mirror. [/quote] That will possibly explain the lack of strobe then

Hate to contradict you Peter but there were stands! IMO it is a buyers market for all but mint or rare items atm! I remember a VGC refoamed set of MS150's go for far more than this about three years ago! I recently saw a Beocenter 9000, 2 x Lab Penta's Beogram 4000 and two BLink 1000's (plus U70's? and couple other older speakers) go

If the detector arm lamp fails then you are correct in thinking that the arm will not lower. Martin member Dillen can help you here with a replacement, assuming it is the bulb at fault. Can you test with a meter? The black bit pulls out, use the lens below to carefully grip and just pull forward! The strobe I would suggest is the reed relay on the supply

I found there was a slight increase in clarity with the 8000 flat, but this was eliminated by setting the BM6000 to just under +1 treble and a little tiny bit of bass. Not surpirsed with the difference in pre-stages tbh.. The BM6000 has Nichicon KW audio caps (although not bedded in ) and the BM8000 with originals but I suspect they are still ok. Would

Interesting to see these differences... Interesting tuning system in this radio... Have you seen a piccy of my processor board on my 8000 thread Jacques? Removing the can was fiddly and resulted in some damage to the very fragile copper foil, but nothing too serious. I suspect the warning about Return for Repair is to do with adequate thermal bonding

Don't worry I get it :) Think the original mirrored finish looks better though!

Just in case you have not realised please bear in mind that the 250mA rating is on the mains side which would equate to about 60W @ 240V on the primary before failure so this will mean it will take a couple of amps on the secondary side before the fuse fails! I think the solonoid draws a couple of ampsinitially but the circuit is designed to reduce