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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012
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This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and 1st March February 2012

 

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  • Re: New Power Supply Caps for Beomasters 6000/8000

    Hi, So what did you B&O buffs choose for your Beomasters then? It seems to me (but I may be fooled by appearances) that those smaller, lighter caps are of inferior quality, whatever brand they carry. I have always thought the heavier the better as far as PSU reservoir caps are concerned. Well, that's what my teachers told me 30 years ago! The
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by chartz on 06-20-2011
  • Re: Beogram 1202 Slow moving auto tonearm.

    Hi, The arm is driven by the main motor, via the belt and idler wheel. So this makes sense and I think a new belt and lubrication of both motor and mechanism are the order of the day! While you're at it clean the electric contacts!
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by chartz on 06-16-2011
  • Re: New Power Supply Caps for Beomasters 6000/8000

    Also, I hate those fashionable cheapo snap-in capacitors. I want real connections, hence the lugs! The supplier is hificollective.
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by chartz on 06-15-2011
  • Re: Beogram 8002 - no damped lowering of the arm

    I don't know. It is very free to move and has no play. Maybe the plastic part which pushed the lever is worn. Nothing I can see, but the 6006 has the same problem!
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by chartz on 06-15-2011
  • Re: New Power Supply Caps for Beomasters 6000/8000

    Yes that was my condition: a perfect and professional fit. No fiddling with spacers etc. The manual stated 63V and it should be fine nonetheless, considering the old ones have some life left in them! And today's quality caps are better too, aren't they?
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by chartz on 06-15-2011
  • New Power Supply Caps for Beomasters 6000/8000

    Hi, I was thinking of these, because they have solder lugs, and appear to be of reasonable quality. The dimensions are spot-on at 40X80 mm for the Beomaster 8000. Any thoughts please?
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by chartz on 06-14-2011
  • Re: Beogram 8002 - no damped lowering of the arm

    Hello Martin, No it doesn't rub on anything. Its translation is free when I push or pull it by hand. Anyway, it is fully enclosed in its own housing. I must be stupid or something but that one makes me mad! Earlier on the arm was in bits and pieces, now re-assembled and better aligned than before. The problem remains. When monitoring the coil voltage
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by chartz on 06-13-2011
  • Re: Beogram 8002 - no damped lowering of the arm

    Hi, I've dismantled everything, the solenoid works fine, it is totally free in its translation, with no play. I don't see anything preventing the mechanism to run correctly. The electronics have ben checked, they work just fine, and components have kept their values. And yet. The solenoid has a hiccup half way out, which I can't reproduce
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by chartz on 06-13-2011
  • Beomaster 6000 gone very hot on the left side

    Hello, Just a quick word really. All of a sudden, after moving it to plug something in, I realized the left side dissipator was getting really very hot. A check underneath, where you can actually touch the fins showed it was burning! Anyway, it turned out to be the no-load trimmer (what else?, as the great (?) George C. keeps saying), which was new
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by chartz on 06-12-2011
  • Re: Beomaster 8000 tuner : nothing past 97 MHz

    Hi everyone. Just to out of curiosity, I opened all the caps I replaced in this Beomaster. The red ROE caps were dry, save one which had all its electrolyte inside! The other axial ROE (silver yellow) looked fine inside, as well as the blue Philips ones which had some electrolyte left inside. None were shorted, leaky or cracked though. Funny thing,
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by chartz on 06-12-2011
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