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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012 READ ONLY FORUM
This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
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I don't have any ceiling poles or mounts and I am not sure if they are easy to refurbish. Martin
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Wow, nice price ! I have restored countless RL140's, refoam, new cloth and new caps. They are wonderful speakers and definitely worth it. If I am to help you with the refoam I would need the woofers shipped to Denmark. For replacing the front cloth, I would need the front frames. A capacitor kit is available. Martin
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Unfortunately, I can't tell you exactly what to look for but anything "out of the ordinary" so to speak.. Platter off. Cartridge off. There are some screws at the back and then you can lift off the whole record deck. There are some wires connecting to the radio chassis below so be careful. Maybe you should try to find a service manual
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Well, I suppose you will have to open it and have a look inside. Martin
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Try placing a record on the platter, swing in the tonearm and place the needle in the end-grooves and start the deck. Let me know what happens - if anything at all. If the needle is not touching the record, gently swing it in a bit further, you may go as long as the edge of the record label. Martin
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Panos, Welcome to Beoworld ! The Beocenter 3500 is a wonderful beast and heavy, no plastics here ! Check that the LIFT button still moves and clicks when pressed. It can become stuck if dust etc. collects around the button. It should rest flush with the aluminum surface of the deck. Martin
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There are two types of Beovox S30 (6301/6317). What you describe is a common problem on the type 6301. The spider has loosened from the metal chassis. In some cases, where only a small part of the circumference has loosened, it can be glued back but in worse cases the woofer will have to be replaced. The tolerances between the magnet and coil is pretty
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This is really a job for a pro workshop and B&O should be able to help you but if you are into electronics I'll be happy to give you a hint; I don't have the manual at hand here but there's a transistor at the extreme laser diode output from the controlling IC, a resistor and a capacitor is in the same little circuit. The capacitor is
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You need to check the laser current and voltage. Martin
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Resolder all the rivet via's on the 2 boards that have them. Replace all the 22uF on the decoder board (there's about 20 or so) - or, even better, grab a complete cap kit and do the whole lot while in there. Bad via's and caps easily causes 80% of all faults in these nice machines. Don't trust any IC signals before the above has been
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