Final update, I hope - I fiddled with the position of the detector arm light bulb to get the maximum platter signal amplitude and tweaked R35. Now even the disc detection and speed selection work The signal is quite marginal, though; I guess the bulb is pretty worn. It does get the correct voltage. -mika

Peter : The Beolab 5000 has the ability to power a centre speaker which is the sum of the right and left channel. They did a special control box to vary the output to the left and right speakers. This may have been the problem with the patent, then. Actually I didn't remember the principle of the Ortoperspekta system correctly - the satellite speakers

joeyboygolf: The speakers and your listening position should be at the corners of an equilateral triangle. And if not possible, I'd always rather have the speakers closer to each other, than farther from this equation. Otherwise the soundstage seems to develop a "hole" in the middle. Here in Finland, Tapio M Köykkä (50s-80s HiFi

Just an update, in case someone is still interested - I've been playing through a good part of my LP collection today, without a single hickup. Dunno what happened, but I'm not complaining I'll carry the oscilloscope back to work on Monday (and list the Dual CS5000 for sale)... -mika

Sarah McLachlan - Touch. From vinyl, of course - still can't get enough of my new Beogram 6000

OK, good to know, I won't waste my time with just glue alone then; the hinge does have a hefty spring... I haven't dismantled the lid yet, but I suppose I'll find some way to reinforce the glue joint.

It's all there short of some tiny bits, but there's not much room for pins since the lid has a "corner" there. I guess I just need more epoxy then

Seemingly all by itself, the lid of my Beocenter 2800 decided to crack at one of the hinges, so the hinge is up but the lid is not :-/ Is there any glue that will hold, or any other method for fixing it? I'm not expecting to get it perfect, just usable (there's another ugly crack at one of front corners). I'll probably try 2-component epoxy

I don't think so - at least not completely. I tried it a few times in a completely dark room with no noticeable difference. I'm starting to suspect the sensor itself might misbehave when it's in the dark. I was thinking about the moving wirings from the carriage too at first, but since the problems are strictly on the black bars now, I think

I never found out where the spurious pulses come from while the ruler is at a black stripe. Possibly induced by the servo firing. The first transistor stage still amplified them to full level anyhow. I added a couple of power supply decoupling caps (the mainboard doesn't have any from the factory!), reduced the sensor-amplifier coupling cap to half