Hi All, Here's something new for me - isolating the cause of this. This is my own restored BM3400, and this old problem was always put on the "to-do" list, as it was not serious. It's the last remaining issue on my unit, and I have a bit of time now to (finally) take care of it. When switching on the BM3400, the FM stations - on the

I've had many of these types of problems in older cassette decks. The problem is that the rubber on the idler wheels has hardened and is too smooth. Assuming you can find new replacement idler tyres, rather use new. Assuming not (my experience), first soften the rubber with an alcohol-soaked tissue held to the rubber wheels, while they are turning

Merry Xmas to all, and thanks for all the continuing good fellowship all year round! Remember, right here, not even 5 miles away from me, is the original Bethlehem.... Always worth a visit, and always welcome to stop by and say hi! Menahem

Failing any mechanical problems, or broken parts, I still would focus on the plastic piston. I had one come back, about 2 months after I repaired it, and I could not believe that the piston was still the problem. After all, I figured that I had rebuilt it perfectly, and it moved easily when I pushed it with my finger. Turns out that I had not lubricated

Hi Martin, Firstly, thanks for your comments. I definitely take your criticism in a positive light, and certainly took no offense here! My motivations were to get this unit fixed, as described in this post, which came to a dead-end, with no help. http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/p/28475/236340.aspx Here in Israel, there is a dearth of real technicians

Hi Chris, The output stages were well-designed, but the drastic shutdown protection-circuit can be improved upon as follows: (I'm assuming that you have the Service Manual on hand) On Page 1-8, PCB2, output stage: 1. Locate R224 2.2KOhm - replace with 3KOhm. 2. Locate R225 390 Ohm - remove and replace with 3x 1N4148 diodes in series. Cathode-side

John Do not start playing with the gears - that's not the source of your problem. Read this post - your problem is the bad plastic piston - no spares, and needs to be rebuilt. http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/p/24078/183590.aspx If you're up to rebuilding it yourself - great, if not, disconnect the main PCB with the solenoid on it, and send

Martin Thanks so much for your kind offer. In the meantime, I did some further troubleshooting (as I do not have a TCA420A to pop in), on the circuit as follows: The Driver amplifiers TR2 and TR3 were replaced with a new pair of matched low-noise BC550C. I always find it a good idea to replace the driver pair, if there is any problem on a circuit, especially

Paul atlantic.systems@verizon.net Larry repair@approvedaudioservice.com Chris Tech@pyramid-audio.com I've bought parts from them in the past - good prices, excellent service. Those electronic parts which are not proprietary - passives and semiconductors, get from Mouser or Digikey Menahem

Hi Martin, I put in a new B40C1500 about 18 months ago, when I first got this in for repair. Is it possible that this rectifier is already faulty (the 26V main circuit is stable), or is it more likely that the previous rectifier damaged the TCA420A? I measured the B40C's + terminal on the scope, and it's showing ripple, but I'm not sure