Yes it is a 130 degrees thermal fuse. Can it be easily extracted? I will definitely check on the first rectifier diodes and the following capacitor (my guess). I think the transformer is okay, but 130 degrees is a lot! The windings resistance look fine but you will never see the lower layers!

Hello! It turns out TF1 is open circuit. Can this be taken out and cleaned or changed? Or installing a 160mA fuse maybe?

Thanks, I'll keep in touch. What do you think of its sound quality then?

Hello everyone, Well my B&O quest goes on, and I've just bought a non-functional Beogram CD 5500. I've now got the best ones, haven't I, CDX and CD 5500! I will report on their differences once I have fixed the 5500... Truth is, there is no power at all. What should I look into? I don't know this model at all, but I guess some of

Hello Martin! I do appreciate the thought! Thanks!

Hi everyone, I am now proud to tell you that the Beomaster 8000 no longer has any original electrolytic in it! I have just replaced the last caps in the PSU board. Didn't make much of a difference, but I can now sleep on both ears! And to convince myself it was a good thing to do it anyway, there were a couple of very doubtful solders joints there

Hey the same as mine! It sounds great you will see, it is entirely worth its price! Now you really have to fix your deck...

Oops sorry that's what I wanted to say, the early 4002 of course were almost like the late 4000, with the same motor, bearing, motor and platter (albeit without the cool strobe).

Without removing the damping mechanism then?

Hi, A new problem appeared: crackles and pops (and some buzzing) after two minutes on the left channel. Then silence, back to normal. A quick monitoring showed offset to be unsteady until the amp temperature was stabilized. The cracks were related to a massive increase in voltage (>200mV) and back to 3mV or so immediately after the last pop! Our