Faz: I still cannot sort the AV out though - I have to turn my Sky reciever on and off and the TV auto switches to the AV input but no AV selector on the remote which I found strange That's because the B&O remote control philosophy is a bit different from others. You're not expected to select sockets or interfaces (and try to remember what

Yes, but you will need a sharp pin-like tip for your soldering iron, don't bother trying with those that look like a 5mm flat screwdriver. I usually apply a little (very little) solder on both of the PCB pads, then just lightly press the cap on and apply the soldering iron on both tabs in turn. Once it melts, the cap will sink in place and the plastic

Not to discourage anyone from upgrading their membership, but the MX4000 user manual is available from the B&O site as well once you register to the community. It is the Beo4 version, though, but I'd expect the setup menus to be the same.

yachadm: You seem to be pretty locked on the idea that 0TR1 is the cause of the heat dissipation, and the BG6000 casing is a giant heatsink. Well, it was just an idea. Since it was pretty easy to desolder the wire from the supply caps to the collector of 0TR1, I put a multimeter in series and measured the current. I have 0.48 amps with the motor running

I did some measurements on mine, too. All are without load, since it was hard to get around with the platter on... Across the motor cap, I have 8.8 VAC. I'd expect this be high due to increased ESR of the original cap? I didn't bother replacing it, since I've heard it seldom fails, and its value is not critical to operation. Anyway, I think

The front corner in my BG6000 (AC) gets pretty hot (rather than "warm") as well. I thought the heating might just be normal. The motor itself rotates quite effortlessly by hand, so I don't suppose it has a problem.

jonblund: I didn't start opening the unit, but access to the relay seemed to be quite easy. How do I get to it? Does someone have dissassembly instructions for the 9000- series? The service manual is on site, but you'll need to be a silver or gold member to download it. I've never touched the relay - getting that particular PCB out for relay

I'm sure it would work in the sense that you will see the picture and hear the sound, but 5-6 meters is a long span for video to run in cable of unknown impedance. I think you would see some ghosting but I can't guess how disturbing it would be. If you really want to use Powerlink cable, I think your best bet would be to use pins 6&7 for

You mean the whole faceplate? The rail itself seems glued on, and not replaceable... I might be selling this machine (or the other one after swapping the faceplates), in which case I probably wouldn't benefit from a spare - the Finnish people are notorious for not paying any premium for completeness, or condition in general for that matter If I

Last weekend I was restoring the woodwork in my recently purchased Beomaster 900K (another one!) and the Beovox S80.2's I also got lately. The 900K sounded pretty good once I cleaned all the scratchy controls, but then it occured to me that why not try it with the 80.2's. Yes, it sounded quite excellent for a 40+ year old stereo receiver, but