Hi all, Always some more fun - my BC5000 which I rescued from the skip, and restored - it was working great until now. When I press any button on the control panel, Play, FF, RW, etc, a click is heard and then nothing. No motor movement occurs. Troubleshooting so far: 1. All main DC voltages from the PSU PCB are OK. 2. When pressing Play, FF, etc, the

Yes Mika, I'll second that - I also learnt something new here. Actually on the Fluke 187, it's so stable, that if I see fluctuations on the AC or DC scale (decimal points as appropriate), I'll suspect ripple, and connect my scope to confirm it. If the Fluke is rock stable, I know there's no ripple. Those Uni-trend UT models are no longer

Hi CDer Check this post, and keep it for reference - if you need to troubleshoot anymore issues. http://forum.beoworld.org:80/forums/t/12646.aspx In your particular case, I would do 2 things to start: 1. Replace the belt - contact user Dillen for spare belts. 2. Remove the platter, and the axle which fits into the vertical socket on the chassis. Wipe

I waited 15 years until I bought my first Fluke, and then slapped myself for waiting so long. I thought that I could get by with Japanese (now read Chinese) knock-offs. The Fluke just removed all doubt when measuring. My second Fluke is a model 187, now 5 years old, bought 2nd-hand on ebay, for a fraction of the new price. It's the best investment

I would get to the PCB4 - mounted vertically, behind the display panel. There you will find a 3V lithium battery. I would unsolder that, leave it overnight, and then resolder it. If you had to replace your laser 3 times on the CD5500, I would say that your service technician should go back to school - there are certain adjustments which have to be done

Sebastian Something is really wrong here. Whatever you measure electrically, you can't have 56VAC with 25.8VDC - this situation would be catastrophic. Depending on the circuit, it can be 56VAC with 26mVDC (millivolts), OR 56mVAC with 26VDC. Can you get a better multimeter to make sure that you get the right readings? As much as I would like to help

You can regard these as "new" caps - after not having been used for many years, the caps are reacting to the change in their composition with electricity flowing through them again. Condition/lifetime of old caps is sometimes related to how the radio was used - if in a hot evironment, the caps would dry out, if in a damp environment, the leads

It's well known that caps take time to break-in. I'm pretty sure that that's what's happened to yours, although I would not be too happy about that. On a radio that old, I would not be playing it at all, unless I had done a complete recap. These old caps cannot be expected to be within specifications, and may (I say "may")

I have experimented with a 60W, 100W, and a 250W lamp. If you increase the radio's volume during non-faulty operation, at some point the lamp will start to flicker, and interrupt power to the radio. This is normal. A higher value lamp will delay the onset of this phenomenon. However, the objective of the lamp is not to test the radio at full power

Check this thread: http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/p/28461/225759.aspx#225759 I developed this home-made non-electronic solution, for this common problem in this entire series of B&O turntables - you should have lots of patience to do it. If it is this problem, looking for a parts turntable won't help you - there's a good chance that the