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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012
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This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and 1st March February 2012

 

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  • Re: Broken Beocord 8004

    Hi: The Beocord can be taken apart relatively easily, but as a cautionary, I hope that you do have good technical skills. I've come across many B&O pieces previously in mint cosemetic condition but damaged/marred by well intentioned but unskilled people trying to repair them and end up doing more harm than good. The 8000 series are a really
    Posted to BeoWorld North America (Forum) by auric on 08-01-2007
  • Re: Help with Beogram TX2

    Hi Peter: Sorry for the confusion, its the TX 2 not TX. Thanks for the attachment. Yes this is the el-cheapo design with the cord. Actually that' kind of how the dot matrix printer heads were driven. The later tables feels like toys...ultra light weight and rather flimsy feeling. I much prefer the precision brass screw rod and the general construction
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by auric on 07-31-2007
  • Re: Broken Beocord 8004

    Hi: I have a similar problem with my Beocord 9000. Do search for this thread in the WorkBench section of the forum. As one very knowledgeable member suggested, the motor is probably gone. The brushes may have failed and short circuited. Fortunately the driver circuitry is protected by a 250mA slow blow fuse and replacing the motor is fairly easy. I
    Posted to BeoWorld North America (Forum) by auric on 07-31-2007
  • Re: Help with Beogram TX

    Hi Peter: The 8000 series and its derivative tables have an mechanical optical gate which allows for variable speed control of the tone arm movement. On the TX the controls are simple on/off switches so not sure how you control speed on it. Derek
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by auric on 07-31-2007
  • Re: Help with Beogram TX

    Thanks Graham for you help as always! Derek
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by auric on 07-31-2007
  • Help with Beogram TX

    Hi: I posted this to the Beogram list a few days ago and didn't get a response. I hope the technically minded audience here might be able help me out. If the "clicking" is abnormal, please offer advice on how this might be corrected. Thanks, Derek ======================== I'm wondering if those familiar with the TX2 would mind answering
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by auric on 07-31-2007
  • Re: A nick in a RL Speaker

    I'm not sure what you mean by "nick".... is it crack or gouge/indentation? I'm a little confused because you also mention tearing... If it is a crack, I would use a high grade "super glue" to provide ridgity to the crack. Then use an epoxy to fill the void. You have to be patient and careful with the epoxy. Use the 24 hour
    Posted to General Forum (Forum) by auric on 07-30-2007
  • Beogram TX2 - User Feedback?

    Hi: I'm wondering if those familiar with the TX2 would mind answering a few questions for me. 1) Moving the tone arm left and right; is it rather slow? especially compared to a Beogram 8000? 2) When you move the tone arm to the extreme right (ie depressing the right key until the tonearm can not go further) does it it start clicking as it tries
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by auric on 07-28-2007
  • Re: beogram 6006

    Hi: As Peter has suggested you can just use any piece of metal. Check your local telephone directory and look for a metal shop. You can buy pieces of finished anodized brush aluminum and have them cut it to size for you. I'm not nearby my 8000 system but perhaps Peter or other owners can give you the exact dimensions of the plate. I recall that
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by auric on 07-17-2007
  • Re: Beocord 9000

    Hi: Thank you for your reply. I hope the motors are not expensive to replace! Regarding the theory of operation for the motor: It has 3 wires on it. How does this work? I assume you have a +/- and the third? Is that some feedback signal? Does this motor operate on a servo system? Thanks, Derek
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by auric on 07-10-2007
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