Yes, that's a bit high. It does match with what I'd expect for the "engage" current though but should switch to a lower current when the solenoid arm activates the switch. I think I would concentrate on this circuit first rather than the solenoid itself. The switch is a break type, normally closed, opened when hit by the arm. It shorts

I can only echo what has already been said, well deserved and congratulations ! Martin

Unsolder one lead off the ones coming from the solenoid and put your amperemeter in between, one pin to the solenoid lead that is now not connected to anything and the other lead to the point where it was connected. In series with the solenoid. Martin

We've heard this song before. It's not because they don't want to repair your Beogram. It's because they don't know how. Martin

Hi Jeff, Yes, we are definitely closing in now. The solenoid could be the problem but it could also still be an electronic fault so that the switching to a lower current doesn't take place. Only a measurement of the solenoid current will answer this. Currently I don't have any solenoids for the BG4000. Martin

Foam rot is due to age, not usage. You would be better off with a repair of the original drivers rather than buying new. The original drivers were produced to B&O's specifications and is practically impossible to match today. Depending on your location, there are several repairers. The cost of a repair is usually cheaper than buying new drivers

Hi Jeff, No problem. Servicing "per remote" is always a challenge. Don't mind the red circle, check the switch in the green circle. You can see that it is activated by an arm running from the solenoid. This switch is activated when the tonearm solenoid has completed it's travel to change the solenoid current from a fairly high current

Yes, a too high current will disturb the system but the Beogram is nowhere near as intelligent as your friend suggests. It's correct that the arm is raised if the power fails as a safety precaution but the electronics don't take reverse EMF into account. Check the switch contacts, check that it actually drops the current to the solenoid when

Welcome to Beoworld ! To me it sounds more like a slipping belt. A new CD deck won't cure this fault. Cleaning, lubrication and a fresh belt is what it takes. Do the cassette deck door too while you are at it. The service manual is available for download for silver and gold members - well worth the membership fee. Going for gold will also include

I agree with Chris. Many owners are in for a huge surprise when replacing the old capacitors. Electrolytic capacitors only have a limited life span, maybe 20 years and, let's face it, both the years and the caps have gone by now. New caps will restore the original sound and we can take it even further with the Penta's; A Beolab Penta upgrade