Well, I don't see any substandard work - looks like you did a good job! Check those carbon resistors which are in the Power supply circuit, especially those whose function is to drop voltage - you'll probably find a couple out of spec. Did you do a voltage check across the power cap, as before? I'd be interested to see the difference in

It's been a couple of days of extended play, with no problems - the cause was definitely the Motor PCB's capacitor, which, I would hazard a guess, was stressed by the motor shaft occasionally seizing. Oiling the shaft with sewing machine oil took care of the stress problem, and new caps should ensure good current, without backpedalling to overload

Those transistors don't just fail willy-nilly, they fail because of poor current - guess from where. Right! Those damn electrolytic caps. Check them (and probably replace them) before you waste your hard-earned gold on new transistors. Some cassette motors have internal PCB's and some don't. On my BC2200, the control PCB is external, but

Now, I wanted to see the current draw. Before I reassembled it, I sprayed machine oil into the shaft; just turning the shaft by hand, I could feel much easier rotation. Now this is measured connected to the battery, but I was more interested in seeing stability of current draw, rather than an actual quantity of AC mA. So, it came up immediately to 16

It's not in series with the motor, but between 2 power transistors - the in voltage is 23.8V, the out voltage is 23.0V. As I am not in the habit of giving up, I cleared my lab table, and got to work disassembling the motor. It was not an easy task to remove the metal cover. I've done a good number of these, and I've broken the PCB tab with

Any idea of the specs for that motor - new Mitsubishi cassette motors are pretty widely available as spares here. Or if there are any spares floating around at your place? And, what about using a fusible resistor of a higher wattage - Digikey has 1W and 2W versions available? Maybe 1/4W - 1/3W is just too low, if this is such a common failure. Menahem

Well, it didn't last long - I'm beginning to think that there's a problem in the motor - brushes or something. I tried prying off the motor cover, as I've done many times before with smaller cassette decks, but this one doesn't budge. Do you know if it's possible to swap the tray motor with the cassette motor?

I checked and rechecked the circuit, and I couldn't see anything electronically. I think you're probably right that there was a physical load. As far as I could see, the only thing was that the flat ribbon cables going to the LED-level indicators were passing on top of the flywheel, and touching it. It could have caused friction. I rerouted

Well, we know that the belts are new, and I ran the test of the motor with the battery power. I checked the strain-release pillars - all have their plastic shields, and there is no damage to the cables. I put in the new 10ohm fusible, connected power, pressed Play to get the front display on, which it did. Then I put in a tape, to make the Tape-sense

Thanks Martin, I did that, no change. But I did notice that the infamous R20 - 10ohm fusible has blown again. It was blown when I got this for repair, and I replaced it with a 1/3W fusible. What could be making it blow? - I've gone through that PSU with a fine toothcomb, and all voltages and components are on spec. Are there any mods which could