And here is the finished product, old ROE bipolar electrolytics replaced with Intertechnik MKT foil caps which should be plenty good for these speakers. I had planned to compare the upgraded and old speakers, but of course forgot to take notes on how the foam padding pieces belonged in the case - so I opened the second speaker for reference before assembling

And just like with the Pentas, the actual crossovers are different from the service manual No problem otherwise, but since I had ordered the caps in advance, I was now short of two 6.8u caps and had a couple of extra 15 uF's... After some thinking, I decided to steal a pair of 2.2's from the Penta lot, and use 4.7+2.2 in parallel for the 6.8

I finally got my cap order today after two months - I guess it was the 27uF caps for the Pentas that took a while... I decided to start with the RL60.2's I have at the office (a cow-orker complained about lack of treble ). I took one off the ceiling pole and opened it up. I hate these chipboard constructions.

dko7113: I have now looked at the transformer, and not being an expert, I think this is traditional. It is in a white plastic box, which measure approx 12 x 12 x 12 cm. I believe electronic transformers are the long slim ones... Sounds like a conventional transformer to me - you can usually tell them apart by weight as well. Traditionals have a large

secondslc: One more question, I just bought a din to rca adaptor for the beogram....where do i hook up a ground? It's the sleeve of the DIN connector. Thanks for the link on the Marantz, I love looking at the insides of this kind of machines even though they are from the wrong camp... An oscilloscope display in a receiver! What will those crazy

Thanks a bunch, Lee - I can get to the product library again.

Conventionally, the round pin is positive (+) - I think the cone moves outwards then. Anyway, it doesn't matter which way they are, as long as both speakers are connected in the same way. Unfortunately B&O cables typically look completely symmetrical from the outside, so you'll have to do the battery test (or open the speaker and look/measure

I believe the limitation is the inductive load created by the halogen transformer - conventional dimmers (be it an intelligent one like LC1/2 or just one with a knob) can't work with them. If you try, it is possible the LC1 will be damaged even before the fuse has a chance to blow... Electronic halogen transformers won't help here either; they

*cough*

You have at least two options: shell out some dough to the nice people / companies who want to offer you this kind of solutions (Irtrans, Lintronic, ridax, ...) build it yourself. With the latter solution, pretty much anything is possible, but implementing the ideas will be more or less difficult depending on how much of a propellerhead you are. You