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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012 READ ONLY FORUM
This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
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Peter, I defer to other members on this, but I doubt you're going to find a better fitting driver. The vast majority of 8" drivers are about 225mm diameter. I'll let you in to a secret way I've handled this problem in the past - the purists among us will probably shoot me. You're short of about radius 2mm around the circle. Mark
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I've restored my 4 S45's (6302), and having had them since almost new (demo's from a B&O dealer in 1977), and they have been well taken care of. If I had to replace them, I would be very careful when buying second-hand drivers, and I wouldn't pay very much for them, unless they were from someone I could trust, like a fellow BeoWorld
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The Monacors are Oriental, marketed by a German company. The Peerless are European designed, but no idea where they're made. I'd prefer the Peerless, if they fit.
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Martin Olsen may have spare drivers - Martin, are you here? I understand that the voice coils are burnt, so you definitely need new drivers. If all else fails, check these 8" drivers Peerless 830869 HDS-205 Nomex, and the Monacor SPH-200KE. EDIT - Actually the SLS 830667 looks like a better fit. Before buying, check the dimensions really well,
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Hi Colin On the attached picture, you can see my rebuilt IF Can, on my restored BM1400. On the left side, about 2/3 way up, you can see a new 10uF 50V capacitor, which replaces the usually faulty tantalum capacitor. A Panasonic EB, or Nichicon HE capacitor is a perfect and very reliable substitute. My BM1400 also suffered the plastic tuning wheel decomposition
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I have repaired many broken plastic parts of vintage equipment. by using slow-set epoxy (much stronger then the fast-set), and layering overlaps on the broken part's cleaned sides, with 2 layers of thin cotton fibre for strength. IE Plastic - epoxy - fibre - epoxy - fibre - epoxy. It builds up the thickness, but it is very strong! Menahem
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These units are well known for capacitor problems, and member Martin Olsen (Dillen) has capacitor kits if you're good with a soldering iron. Send him a PM. Menahem
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Hi Chartz, To check if an electrolytic capacitor is OK, the primary and most reliable method is ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance), not Capacitance. 99.9% (this is my very subjective number here ;-) of defective electrolytics still show acceptable capacitance, but if you were to check them again with an ESR meter, you'd confirm that they are all
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Mike, Firstly, welcome to BeoWorld! To deal with your problem, understand that these are not quick-fix units. But they were built to last a lifetime, so certainly worth restoring. Take a look at one of the posts I've written on this model - http://forum.beoworld.org:80/forums/t/12646.aspx More specifically, understand that transistors do not just
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The fact that you're concerned and want to correct it, means we'll make a tech out of you yet! Definitely start checking resistors, without a doubt. On some of them you may have to desolder a leg to get the actual reading. Anything more than 10% deviation (and I would aim for 5% max) is definitely cause for replacement. Use metal or carbon film
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