Oh yes, the extra P- command (0xFA) really is the same as plain P-IN-P. Thanks from me as well.

Looking at the codes transmitted, "PC " is a video selection (probably reserved for a computer input on a TV?). L-PC is the link code for it, and AV-PC is the AV code (similar to AV-TV) as usual. I have no idea what the P- prefices are supposed to do. They send two commands, the latter one being the normal code without P-.

And finally, here is the finished product. I didn't replace C4 on board 14 (2,2u) since I had to use the replacements on the RL60.2's yesterday. There are plastic caps originally anyway, so I don't think MKT caps would make much of a difference. The huge 68u caps indeed make it necessary to cut a little plastic from the speaker bottom plates

Mikkis: Thanks for your help. I read about the c2103 and I think I have to contact B&O service because I am afraid that there is no skilled forum members available at Finland. I'm in Espoo and I have repaired some B&O CD players which had this cap problem. However, I can't promise to be able to fix it as there might be other problems

Here we go. The other one is the same, including the serial number - I guess these were numbered in pairs?

What a treat! I have always wondered about the internal construction of the MMC cartridges and there are now several pages on that, not to mention the other "inside" information on various pieces of kit. Thanks!

Definitely RL60.2's with an original bass reflex construction, no traces of ABR's - and the actual crossover doesn't match the RL60 in the service manual either. Soon I'll be tempted to go back to the office to check them!

I'll get them tomorrow, at least one of them has the serial number sticker left. Do you suppose I have a pair from some very early production run, or something? I recall the type number matches (checked it before buying these), and the mylar straps read "RL60.2" as well.

Well done! I'll attach an excerpt from the service manual. Since the amp now stays on, replace the trimpots one at a time so you have a better chance of adjusting the new trimpot properly before anything heats up again. They shouldn't end up too far from center position if everything else is working properly. I don't think there have been

Hi Erik, and welcome! In wait for the real experts to chime in (I've never been inside a 5000), I'll tip you that the trimpots that control the idle current of the power amp are most probably bad (R126 and R226, 100 ohms). This will cause the power amp to draw much more current than it is supposed to, and the protection circuits will shut the