I have done the NOS mod on my extensively modified Philips CD650, which is IDENTICAL to the BeoCentre 9000, and 9500 - of those I am sure, as I have worked on them and they are the Philips CDM2 circuits with TDA1541 and SAA7220. It is not the same as the BeoCentre 9300, as that has the CDM4 circuit, so I cannot be sure that it will work. The SAA7220

Hi Remy, Yes, there are 2 problems here - one on the main PCB, which there is not enough current flowing to drop the arm - you must resolder ALL the PCB joints. There's nothing to check there, just do it. Certainly replace the 4 orange electrolytic capacitors with good-quality Panasonic or Nichicon units. Those capacitors are now acting as resistors

Hi all, I'm working on a BG4002, and need some clear instructions in English. My original SM is in German, and my German is OK, but not to the technical level in the particular steps described in the manual. Has anybody done this successfully before, and can give me step-by-step instructions to continue? I've got this far that the centre bolt

Well, I'm glad we got you up into the attic, Martin. I'm glad you got down out of there - I know that browsing the treasures up there can be very time-consuming. Seriously though, the original woofers are the best replacement - I haven't heard better.

As I said 3 posts before - tape up the entire speaker before starting to grind.

Good point, Mika. I mentioned patience, and patience is definitely a requirement - gentle grinding at one point on the flange, and moving on before it gets hot. Possibly making 4 or 5 complete 360 degree rotations to do the entire 2mm reduction. The least invasive procedure would be to make a 3mm thick MDF spacer ring.

Why not, indeed? It won't hurt, that's for sure. Make sure that you tape up COMPLETELY the speaker before grinding - you don't want little metal filings getting into unwanted crevices, and that large magnet is certainly going to pull anything metallic its way.

Yes, that's correct, but of course the actual performance also largely depends on the box it's mounted in. I plugged this M8A's numbers into my software, and it will give very poor performance in the S45's box. Not much bass below 90Hz. According to the software, the best one in the S45 box is still the Peerless SLS above.

BTW, another mounting method, if you dont want to grind the cabinet, is to have a carpenter make from MDF, 3mm thick mounting rings which will enable the drivers to be mounted a bit forward, and flush with the black plastic cabinet. The edges of the drivers will overhang the MDF, so it won't be visible. If you're creative, you can definitely

Peter, you definitely do not want that. There are 2 "types" of woofer drivers out there - bass-woofers (even called sub-woofers), and mid-bass-woofers - this one. You won't hear any bass from this one - you'd need a separate powered sub-woofer to hear any half-decent bass from your music. This one would probably be best suited as a