Are you sure you have installed the belts correctly? It's not quite easy to get it right if there is no reference. There are two belts from the motor and one of them (smaller one, I think) goes somewhere like in the drawing attached. (There WAS a photo of the setup in here: http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/t/11997.aspx and here: http://forum.beoworld

I got my new BS2 just today. It has the 1.x.x.'something' firmware which seems to be very old and causing a lot troubles. I am too running on MacBook. Is the firmware really the same thing as mentioned in here: ? http://www.bang-olufsen.com/page.asp?id=145 If it is then the 1.1.0.12 I have is really old and should be updated at once. It took

Two weeks ago I was able to bought a 10 meter-long MCL cable from my local B&O shop. Price was 45 EUR. The cable looked like brand new so I guess they are still in production (or they have a huge stock of these left). Today I finally had time and courage to work on this. The main problem was the relay inside the BC that I should replace before having

If you need any info about the 2313 type of mine Martin, just ask! I didn't see any of those tantal caps inside but I will keep this in mind with future projects! I replaced the huge green power supply cap and the two speaker coupling caps with modern ones. Also some of the blue electrolytics on the main board were leaking some ugly stuff out of

That sounds exciting! On which boards are these tantal caps? On the service manual (the ones on Beoworld doesn't seem to match with my BM as it's type 2313) I can't see any other type than electrolytics. What values / voltage ratings are they?

I was originally about to post my questions to your thread (at the moment it seems to have been better choise as there is nothing dramatically wrong with mine). Your question about "Dillen's Cap Kits" (TM) was a good one and I am also looking forward his answer! Anyway I am going to replace the worst-looking caps and sand down and wax

Solved! I was just too jumpy - the problem was too weak aerial signal. The newer tuners usually manage with a small 10cm aerial wire here but this needed a bit more wire (well, this is the earliest B&O I have yet seen). Now it's playing just fine. There are still some smaller caps (those blue Philips(?) axial ones) that look like leaked so I

Hi. I got a nice Beomaster 1000 on my desk. This is the black-key version, type 2313. I was told it was otherwise working but the tuning cord seemed to be jammed.... The external parts and cabinet are in almost mint condition. When I first time opened the cover (to have a look on the tuning mechanism) I noted that there was something pink over the boards

Hi. You don't need to open the connector. The two pins are actually screws so you can simply un-screw the two with a very small screwdriver. There is a slot at the end of the pin. When you have the connector at hand you will see. I wouldn't use pliers as it might bend the surrounding pins. And remember to pack the two loose pins carefully somewhere

http://notebook.beocentral.com/ (read the Beocord 9000 part, about half way down the first page) - something similar?