Sammy, I had 2 consistent problems with all of these series of decks, which all gave the same symptoms - the first problem I described with the rollers, and the second problem is too much friction on the motor shaft. To take care of this, you need to remove the motor from the cassette table, and have it sit upright on a flat surface. If you are lucky

Jacques I can rebuild yours for you if you want - I am familiar with this type. Menahem

Yes - Roller is a much better word! Those rubber parts on Idler-wheels.... Here's my completely rebuilt auto-stop PCB - new everything! Menahem

A superb deck - I restored mine, you can see the main PCB below. The faults were as follows, when I decided to operate it in 2003, after having had it in storage for about 15 years: 1. All the rubber belts reeded replacement - from Martin Olsen - Dillen. 2. All the rubber washers had hardened - no replacements available, so I "skinned" the

Geoff, That's a real nice job. You're a man after my own heart - if the part doesn't exist, make it. This is a keeper, for when I have one of these in for restoration - I will be copying you! Menahem

I've been through this on my BC9300. It's a real simple fix - a new belt of the correct size, and Silicon Spray on all the runners, with which the cord comes in contact. Nothing more complicated than that. Menahem

Hi Sammy, The rubber "washer" which contacts the continually-turning axle has become hardened and slippery, and is not making consistent (if at all) friction contact with the axle. I've been through a few of these decks, all with the same problem. So far, I have not been able to find a supplier with the necessary washers (new). If anyone

My favourite is the BeoMaster 3400 Quad. After I restored and aligned it, I have not heard any other receiver which equals its pure, clean, sweet sound. My only gripe is the tuning section, which is voltage controlled, and uses a potentiometer to tune the stations. It would have been far more sensitive and reliable, with an air variable capacitor. Menahem

Geoff, I'm not going to guess, so I'm going to tell you only what I know from practical experience. If that left-right rotating sensor (in the above picture) is not properly adjusted, the arm will not drop, even though the arm may be in the correct position. That's the first place I look, if the arm doesn't drop, and of course, that's

Hi Jacques, I changed the op-amps, yes. I first installed sockets, because I knew what was coming ;-) I tried about 15 different op-amps, all those which are talked about on the op-amp forums, including the expensive high-spec AD797. I used Brown-Dog adapters for those op-amps available only in SMD. And, at the end of the day, the OPA2134UA was tops