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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012
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This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and 1st March February 2012

 

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  • Re: Repairs to a classic

    Dillen wrote> Leaning more and more towards the theory of the yellow cap being the original, I will remove the added un-original cap and leave the original cap in situ for appearance. Obviously you can check against your own set, but it does not look right to me. Some caps have the date marked on them in full or week No and year 52/47 for instance
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by PWH on 09-18-2008
  • Re: 4002- loose spring

    Thanks, i shall just put it away. Do you think the one that is on the spindle should be there? it was attached when I lifted the turntable. I attach a photo as a practice. Also on the turntable is a moulded plastic piec. What is it? I remember, (35 years ago!) this was a transit guard/lock for the arms?
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by PWH on 09-14-2008
  • 4002- loose spring

    I have obtained a 'one owner from new' 4002 . It needs new belts which are on their way from Dillen. On inspection I found a spring loose in the bottom of the chassis. It is identical to one which was on the end of the turntable spindle which goes into the bearing. Does anyone know what it is for? Where does it go? How many are there? I want
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by PWH on 09-14-2008
  • Re: Repairs to a classic

    Hi Dillen you wrote> it is practically impossible to print white on clear. Yes, but sometimes you can take a clear waterslide shape and spray it white, then print the transfer, the white comes out clear. Put the white on first and the 'clear' on top so you have a transfer on the transfer. The white will come through Takes a bit of practice
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by PWH on 09-05-2008
  • Re: Repairs to a classic

    Hi Dillen, I expect you know but others may not, so it should also be mentioned with this type of set there is a 50/50 chance the chassis will be live depending on how the mains plug is wired, so with no knob you could get a nasty surprise or even die!. Also UK sets tended to have the switch in the neutral line so the chassis could be live even when
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by PWH on 09-04-2008
  • Re: Repairs to a classic

    you wrote>The bad things are that the lettering on the dial has more or less gone and what's left is almost unreadable, this is something that will have to be solved somehow. If you have a good dial, scan it and print onto clear film then make a 'sandwich' with 2 thin pieces of glass. If you don't have another dial, many hours with
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by PWH on 09-04-2008
  • Re: Repairs to a classic

    Hi Dillen, If you need parts, I have most of them including valves. Do you have a diagram? I can probably find something very similar. www.vintage-radio-resources.com Regards
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by PWH on 09-04-2008
  • Re: Beogram 8000 electronic restoration

    One more observation, when in 'play' and the arms have moved 2-3 cm from home and stopped, if you turn the belt connected to the arm motor,the LED at the end of the sensor arm flashes so really confirms the IR counter LED is working. How can I tell if the sensor arm is giving an output? There is a light shining down from it. Thanks
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by PWH on 08-22-2008
  • Re: Set-down Adjustment for Beogram 8000 Tonearm

    referring to Martin's photo, is the switch in the correct position? This may help with my repair in another thread.
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by PWH on 08-19-2008
  • Re: Set-down Adjustment for Beogram 8000 Tonearm

    Its a microswitch by the back right hand side, (looking from the front) near the arms when 'home' screwed to the base.
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by PWH on 08-16-2008
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