Replied with manuals :) Dont waste your time IMHO with the netcurrentfilter. The ASC's are very plug-in-play. Couple of connections and that's it sorted. Try them and you'll see how spot on they are "out-the-box". Regards, Andrew

joostdeclercq , send me an email if you want the manual. Can I also ask where you've ordered the 200asc's from, as I'm wondering if I can get them any cheaper :). I too am looking at buying an RL140 as two surrounds then downmixing 5.1 straight to them and the Pentas.

I sent him it but he's not said anything. Your icepower seller can supply you it if you used the same source that I did, or email me: contact *at* igaro *^dot^&* com And I'll send 'em both over.

PC has a HD sound card in it, Cambridge Audio Artic phono leads have been split and go in opposite directions to the Pentas. :) ########## I found another seller of a few ICepower bits ... (eBay Member: alfetta87) - 2 x ICE250ASP, 135€ each - 10x ICE250 which can be driven by a 250ASP, 72 € each - 10x transformer + rectifier board withall

I dont understand why you want to fix something that isn't broke. The midrange from my Pentas is exceptional, especially the imaging. Mine have had very little use, so perhaps your caps are shot or the driver coils are fried. As cheap as they may have been, they are very good. On another note I've found the IcePower's need a "burning

I've decided to keep the 200's. With some music the volume is around the 150W mark, with others it's quieter. If I go with other ICePower models I loose the auto standby mode as it features only on this model. Also, the sound is truely bliss and I "hear" the 500 isn't quite so good. Third generation IcePower is out now but

I used that site for part of my research and I actually submitted the missing B&O developers manual to him for inclusion on his site. The 200 will be fine in your 7000 as it's tiny. All IcePower gear is designed to withstand back pressure hence all the white stuff all over the place. I would now not recommend the 200 for the Pentas if volume

The schematic shows all four bass drivers installed in series, which would mean they are 32ohm each???

They are not as loud as the originals amps as the line-in is designed to output 100W at 8ohm with no distortion. I presume you're getting another 30W extra with the 150/200's before distortion kicks in. The 500ASP outputs 250W @ 8ohm. It would only take a incorrect volume control to destroy the tweeter as it's rated at 200W absolute max

Something I found out today is that volume is non-linear and one of the drawbacks is the volume. It's doing 100W max using my pc output and that's at absolutely no distortion, but driving it higher is proving difficult as I need to go above line-level on the input. The 500's might do the trick but no chance will they fit in the bottom and