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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012 READ ONLY FORUM
This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
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Well, good news and bad news. I got all the suspect components swapped out, and all the wiring harnesses put back where they go. The receiver powers up, and tests (Monitor + Standby) fine. However, the power amp section does not power up. There is no voltage across the main filter caps (should be 55V), and there is no delayed relay clicking on. Upon
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Thanks Martin, glad to know they're pretty safe to leave in place if I need to. I am replacing as many as I can, though. The RDE axials (gold), I assume, should go.
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I'm changing out the caps on my BM8000, should I regard the blue Philips caps with the same suspicion as the red RDE's?
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I have my orders placed, and will receive them in a few days. I found the BF859* transistors at MCM, the rest at Digikey. I decided to shotgun all the electrolytics, since I have heard the RDE's are ticking timebombs. * BF859 shares a datasheet with BF857, and appears to be a higher-voltage version of the original, Vce/Vcb is 300V, vs. 160V.
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I found a BF859 at MCM, should be a drop-in replacement...AFAIK
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Thanks for the response, but no one has that either. My sources are Digikey, Mouser, and MCM. I can source an NTE part locally, NTE171, but I've been advised to stay clear of NTE parts.
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I am compiling my order to rebuild the damaged Module 5 in the Beomaster 8000. I am having a difficult time finding the transistor "BF857", predriver. The SM also lists the BD849, but it's not coming up either. Is there a good *available* substitute?
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Before I go to Digikey and place my order, does anyone have a Module 5 they want to sell?
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I have the predrivers on my list to order. Would the power transistors need to be replaced as well? I have not physically seen them, so I don't know what they look like. But there were no signs of overheating on the heatsink.
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Well, I discovered the souce of the bad right channel--the driver board has some cooked parts. The left channel's board looks like it's gotten "warm", as they are wont to do, but not "cooked". The problem with the flaky input switching is not readily apparent, but I'll look for bad solder joints and bad caps. And, there
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