The easiest method - and the one that is less harmful to the board - is to heat up the solders and add a little fresh solder. This will normally work fine unless the two solder types are very different or the board has been exposed to water, high temperatures or has previously been seriously got-at solder-wise in which case the board must be completely

There's a fuse inside the transformer too. The cap inside the processor housing; Check using an ohmmeter that there is a connection from its negative pin to the metal processor housing, if not introduce one. Also make sure that its positive pin doesn't short to anything apart from its actual mounting point. Martin

The best thing would be to put an oscilloscope to the sensor signal path. Alternatively a DC voltmeter where shining a flashlight on the sensor (I use a dentists mirror for this) should produce a DC voltage from the sensor. The sensor is a tiny piece of glass, it breaks quite easily (I have new ones in stock if you need, not the easiest part to replace

Hej Brian, Kit'et indeholder forskellige kondensatorer i både 85C og 105C - dog som regel 105C på udsatte steder. (De originale var ofte 65C !) Beomaster 1900/2400 løber dog sjældent egentlig varm så det ville ikke noget større problem at anvende 85C over hele linien. Kit'et er ikke sammensat af komponenter

Hard to say for sure but certainly not impossible. The board will be fine again, it has been repaired, soak tested and only the trimmers need replacing now. Martin

Hej og velkommen til Beoworld ! Skifter du de store lytter, øger du startstrømmen drastisk. Det belaster ensretteren osv. og vil sandsynligvis ikke fjerne brummen. De to er som regel altid i god stand og fornuftigt dimensioneret fra fabrikken. Derimod er alle de print-monterede kondensatorer ofte i dårlig stand. De har alle siddet

A capacitor mounted with wrong polarity can destroy the capacitor but rarely anything else, though, depending on the state of the wrongly mounted cap, the fuse may blow. The board silk screening is often wrong. The best thing is to mount the new caps the same way as the old were. Check for cracked solders in the power supply and rectifier areas, at

If this motor was used together with the board that you send to me for repair, it's quite understandable. The H-bridge was shorted, causing full DC to reach the motor at all times, toasting a couple of transistors as it went along. Martin

Well, if the volume control is not at zero I suppose your Beomaster is in need of service. Martin

Yes, or the belt slipped off, jammed or snapped. Does the platter rotate by hand ? Welcome to Beoworld ! Martin