Mine measures 8.89 ohms, but resistance is never the correct method to check for shorts in a winding like this. If there was a short, then the resistance should be less. EDIT Graham reports 2ohms (but he could also be using a less precise ohmmeter...), so it MAY however be an indication of a short. A correct method to check for shorts is Inductance

Quick and dirty fix - OK But remember that that arm didn't just fail willy-nilly - It was very stressed to the point of cracking and then failure. I would take apart the entire mechanics there - it's not a difficult job at all - and clean all the old gunk out, put new lithium grease on, and then reassemble them all. Also, get hold of an ESR

I don't have the BM4000 circuit with me right now, but quoting from the BM4400 circuit (which is very similar IIRC), on the +35V and -35V circuits are 2 0.1uf caps, 1 between the AC and +35 rail, and 1 between the AC and -35 rail. These are B40C800 (40V 800mA) or B80C800 (80V 800mA), which can easily be replaced with the 11DQ10 (100V 1100mA) On

Graham When fuses blow, it's pointless to just put in new fuses without sorting out the problem. You'll just blow the new fuses as well. A smart solution is to wire a 60W bulb in series with nour AC lead to the mains. In your case here, just wire a 60W bulb into where the turntable fuse used to be, with a long wire going away from the turntable

I replace the FM section bridge-rectifier with 4 11DQ10 Schottky diodes for much more stable performance. If this is done, then the film capacitors (part of the old regular bridge-rectifier) must be removed. Menahem

Pls check my website On the right-side, you will see some PDF links. Download the Beogram 4500 pdf, and inside, you will find complete instructions to repair the piston. If you do not wish to do the work yourself, I am happy to do it for you - Pls contact me on how to remove the main PCB for shipping. Menahem

Hi Mika Israel is specced at 220V. I have never seen anything lower than 222V, and normally see 236-238V at the wall outlet. So I think it's all a lot of bureaucratic nonsense. I always set my PSU's to 240V, if there is a possibility. A brownout (lower voltage) is much easier on electronics than an overvoltage (I'm not saying that brownouts

Graham Put some pictures up of the damaged areas - I have lots of parts, and I'm sure I can help Menahem

Sam, re 1 - I'm sure that your slide circuit works - the pic shows the LED which is part of the signal circuit (for lowering) - remove the slide-ruler and check that exact LED for function (voltage drop). If that LED does not check OK, the arm will not drop. re 2 - You will not see a Yellow LED, you will see an incandescent lamp, which should illuminate

And while we're at it, looking for the purest way to keep the original music from getting colored by the components, don't forget the resistors. Those original carbon resistors are NOISY, notwithstanding that many of them are no longer in spec. On restorations where money is no object, I replace every resistor. The difference is not only audible