You don't need a "B&O" cable then, just a 4 wire cable.

Hey Keith, do you mean you would get this cable and then put 4-pin Din speakerlink connectors on the ends?

Yeah James, as Keith said that cap I showed you is physically larger, by quite a bit actually. It's about 1.5 inches long and 0.5 inches in diameter. There's room in the back of the CX for it though. It'll just be pressing against the dampening foam a little bit.

For the cap, the voltage doesn't matter. The 250v one is fine. That's what I used. As for the CX100's vs the 8000's, I was careful to say at moderate listening levels (I often listen to music casually while studying or something like that, and don't turn the volume up much). I'm sure once you turn the volume up, then the 8000's

Yeah, assuming you're not in a rush, which you shouldn't be, just unplug the thing the day before you go to work on it.

I was only joking back when I said that, nothing to be sorry about. Asking questions is always far better than pretending to know answers

Usually something like two-part epoxy is fine.

Hey James, that sounds like a nice setup, but I personally wouldn't recommend the 8000's for the money, even though they look great. At moderate/causual listening volumes, I actually don't think they sound a whole ton better than the CX100's with a good amp (*guards membership with fearful eyes*), even though they cost over 5 times as

Regardless of the voltage, if you unplug the set first, and wait for the caps to discharge, I really don't see how you'd get shocked by working on it. LCD's use lower voltages, but the power supplies are typically located inside the housing, so there will still be 240v up until you get to the supply.

The link I posted is the exact cap you'd need. It's a 6.8uF After posting I compared them again. I have to tell you, the difference is very small. Unless audio is a hobby for you as it is for me, it may not be worth your time.