3.x would give you better teletext, but the teletext board would have to be swapped as well. And you would lose two-way remote control! The RGB switching in all of the LX/MX range with two SCARTs is really a crying shame. They used biased diodes for vision switching instead of something slightly more expensive that could've passed even near the

Of all the B&O speakers I've heard and owned - from '60's Beovox 2200 to Beolab 8000 - I have to agree that they may not sound so special with hard rock, but they really shine with classical music. CX's may be an exception, but most of the others seem to love string quartets and similar assemblies. And thanks for going through the

Excellent, congratulations! There are of course a lot of other adjustments and they all should probably be checked in correct order when parts have been replaced. But, if you have now managed to get it to track correctly, and the arm stays very near parallel to the sensor arm while playing, I'd just let it be for a while and enjoy playing some records

[quote user="vikinguk"] Thanks for your Philips influence comment. Still begs the question why was this model so poor. (Aren't Philips own TVs generally OK from this period???) [/quote] Well, not all of them. For some reason, the tubes are fine, but they have managed to construct a self-destructing CPU for them. A well known failure, but

[quote user="Puncher"] [quote user="tournedos"] Robert Palmer - Johnny And Mary Just found the album ("Clues") for 1 euro at a flea market, which had literally 1000s of vinyls laying around in unsorted boxes. Awful job trying to go through them, as 99.9% of the albums were sh*t approaching cosmic dimensions. However, once

Robert Palmer - Johnny And Mary Just found the album ("Clues") for 1 euro at a flea market, which had literally 1000s of vinyls laying around in unsorted boxes. Awful job trying to go through them, as 99.9% of the albums were sh*t approaching cosmic dimensions. However, once this record is over, I have some '60s recordings of Bach's

[quote user="joeyboygolf"] The rear adjuster can be reached far easier and with less danger of ruining something by simply removing the plastic trim (the black thing with Beogram xxxx on it) at the rear of the dustcover (only requires the removal of 2 screws and just lifts off!). Just as an aside, if you need to lift the hood/bonnet, every

Reminds me of the dial bulb on my '70s Beomaster 2000's - seems it's a glass socket bulb fitted very tightly. In the case of the Beogram shutter, it probably needs to be fixed well, as any movement might affect the settings of the shutter. On one of these, the bulb came off by simply twisting (use some cloth between the pliers and the bulb

unplug from mains remove platter carefully push the arm carriage as far to the left (center) as it will go under the right side of the deck, you will find two small screws - remove them now the frame of the deck (along with the dust cover) can be lifted up from the right, there are hinges on the left. Look after the tone arm assembly, this is why it

Welcome to forum! just to make sure, you didn't tighten the screws, did you? they are supposed to be fully open, i.e hanging loose. then the platter and arm should just bounce on the leaf springs. Many sellers don't tighten the transport screws before shipping or don't even know that they are there, so they might have been open already when