The crossovers in these speakers are probably nothing more than a cap and a coil (maybe not even that coil), so there's not much more to match than the driver impedance and crossover frequency. However, I see absolutely no point in replacing them with something new... unless the old "crossover" was just a single cap

I was looking at a Beomaster 5000 (the tuner) listed on eBay, and noticed a red sticker in the rear that said "BEOMASTER 5000 with CERAMIC FILTER". Was this an improvement introduced some time during the production run, of something added later? The label seems very similar to the usual B&O type sticker (which says type 2005 s/n 33597

[quote user="Chrisreunion"] B&O have always been famous for their mechanical movements on all products: sliding doors on BeoSounds, turning stands on BeoVisions, but..nothing moves on a BeoLab! [/quote] B&O has also been famous for the mechanical movements failing after some time But I agree - an obvious application would be for the

That fault is probably in the muting / silent circuit - I have it as well, but haven't bothered to look into it yet. In 4002/4004 the muting is done with a relay, but in BG6000 it's electronic and integrated into the CD-4 decoder. I seem to remember Menahem found a faulty diode in his BG6000 that caused this?

Probably just the transformer buzzing - this has been a common problem in many B&O products over the decades. Try to move it on a different place on the table / shelf you have it on. Often the sound is multiplied by the platform resonating.

[quote user="Michael"] [quote user="Quim43"]Is it this?[/quote] Are these boxes designed to enclose the eye within or are they for mounting the eye on top of? My guess is it's inside but it's difficult to tell in the picture. [/quote] Certainly inside. Look like quite normal run-of-the-mill IP65 classified ABS enclosures

"2301-3", Peter I'm afraid the Danish station names mean it will be one of the "domestic" versions and might not have switchable voltage (or the switch, perhaps the transformer could be rewired?). But the radio will not be a problem - the FM transmissions are just the same everywhere, only the channel spacing differs across the

[quote user="joostdeclercq"] It seems that that PCB is dual layer. Is it difficult to solder, or are there soldercontacts on front and back of the PCB? [/quote] It was pretty hard. It has a lot of copper and the pads seem pure round without "unweighting" or whatever it should be in English... which means that the heat runs away from

Yes, you should do that. I can't remember the component designations, but they are 100 ohm trimmers near the "end" of the power amps and you can't miss them by looking at the "no-load" section of the service manual. Do them one at a time and preset the new trimmer to the approximate value / position of the old trimmer first

i agree, just cut some similar material to the approximate shape. I suppose their only purpose is to damp high frequency reflections from the fret cage / enclosure edges, and that is by no means critical.