Santiago, I was not totally clear in my response about the difference between Mark I & Mark II picture tubes. Whilst the Mark I was marketed as a real flat screen it was not quite true, but the Mark II really was. Without taking the AVANT apart it is not really possible to see the difference as a user and it is not a big difference, but it is different

To start by answering Santiago first, a type 8448 is a Mark I AVANT DVD and so this means it did not have the real flat screen and also means it is about 7 years old. Many of these tubes needed to be replaced and I myself have replace one. If it is just a straight tube replacement job, then the cost will be between the £400 to £700 level

Have a look at a previous thread on the subject HERE

Like others I would suggest the Beolab 4000's as your rear speakers, in fact that is exactly what I have in place and have had for many years.

Congratulations to Andy and all prize winners. I was not on-line last night, but was surprised to note this morning when I logged in that I also had won a prize, thanks to Lee, the moderators and of course the random number generator. Beoworld made it over the 2000 member target, the next milestone is getting the founder members to 500 before next months

I have Beovox 3000 in my dining room and they are just fine, as you say they generally will be at low level background music when eating.

Which version of AVANT DVD do you have, the easy way to determine is look at the 4 digit type number on the back ? It can make a big difference to the price.

I suggest you do not do a complete reset otherwise your address book will be lost. As you now have three Mark II handsets you can de-register the old handsets from one of the new ones, or de-register all of them by doing the following:- Press the centre dial button and turn clockwise until you get to SETTINGS press centre Turn dial clockwise until you

There could be several causes of your problem, but top of my list would be:- The driver circuit to the green gun. The Tube The only way to be sure is for someone with technical knowledge to monitor with a scope the three colour signals into the tube with a constant test signal the same on RGB, if the result is equal signal at the tube, then the tube

I am not sure what socket you are talking about, on my 6500 I do not have a line in/out as such, what I have is as below