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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012
READ ONLY FORUM
This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
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Every powerlink lead carries right and left information. You can use splitters as much as you like and you will still get right and left info. That's why the R and L switches are in the speakers.
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At one time in my life I worked for a number of years for the Philips group. They were one of the biggest manufacturers of CRT's in the world with glass factories in a number of countries including the UK. Glass production moved to China and India and was shipped back to the UK for assembly. Now they make the whole sets in China and ship the completed
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Us good people of the so called 1st or civilised world need to wake up to the fact that we cannot afford to actually make anything from raw materials any more. The dirty work is all done in those countries where you are still allowed to pollute the environment and kill off the workforce while paying them peanuts! Our environment police together with
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I think it still sends the same code, it's only the writing on the button that changes!!
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I think the datalink on the 9300 does recognise a phono deck but your problem will be modding the cables to continue tne datalink around the RIAA pre amp. I know it's possible 'cos I've done it with some cables specially made for the job by one of the members on the old forum. Reply to your next question.........errr, I'm thinking! If
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Not all BV3's were fitted with the socket. You may have to buy the socket and drill out the rear of the BV3 to fit it to the board. The lead from the stand just plugs into this socket.
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Congratulations and well done Andy on such a fantastic thread. I can't remember when there was such compulsive reading on BeoWorld.
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The only reason to disagree with Peter is that you probably have a little more life expectancy with a 9300 and certainly more chance of getting the 9300 repaired if neccessary.
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Yes, they are held in by a bit of mastic sealant but you have to remove all the modules starting from the top of the speaker as each module overlaps the next! You will need to just loosen the top of the amplifier module as well to get the last woofer out.