The problem is that a conventional TV set contains pretty much nothing useful for this conversion apart from the case. Starting from the power supply, they have been designed around the high voltage deflection stage that the tube requires and there's not much sense running it "dry". Even the connector panel and signal routing is usually

That is one confusing circuit! Apparently the RPY13 is there just to avoid using dual slider potentiometers? Or, just to make do with a single buffer stage in the Beomaster selector... dubious savings if they only ever built one per dealer! EDIT: Now I get it! It's of course because the control unit can be a long distance from the switching box

Hi Tom, welcome to the forums! The Beolab 6000 (like most B&O active speakers) are optimally connected through Powerlink. It carries line level audio (volume controlled, actually both channels through a single connection), signals to instruct the speakers on & off, and optionally display data to those speaker models that care about it. You can

OK, perhaps the feature went away with two-way remote (which is funny, since the two-way IR hardware is still there). Darn, I have a 2-way LX6000 I could try, but it is stored in an unaccessible place right now... Inserting a headphone mutes both internal & external speakers. PL speakers ought to go on playing, since it's just a mechanical switch

[quote user="ProGram"] Good luck! But it is not possible to balance between int. and ext. because there is a relay. It can switch only. [/quote] This must be some early version of MX6000 then? Because in my -IT-Beo4 version (nor in the service manuals on site) there are definitely no relays. Just straight wiring. The balance setting is described

I've never tried that myself but it should work - you should then also be able to adjust the balance between internal and external speakers instead of just muting the internals completely. The 5000s are obviously a lot better speakers, but I believe the soundstage might feel a bit odd with nothing coming from the TV itself especially if you rotate

No easy way, sorry. They are connected straight in parallel, with no passive nor active switching between them. You could open up the TV and unplug the connectors of the internal speakers from the audio amplifier, but that is something you should leave to someone familiar with working inside TV sets, it's potentially lethal in there. Welcome to

That is funky! So, apparently you can connect five amplifiers, and the mixing console kind of thingy allows you the level the levels, so to speak? The typography suggests that it would be from the early '70s...

[quote user="rhansen"] Thanks for the insight fellas. I am not home now, but I have removed a volume dial from the wall in the past (by the way, when turned they click, not scratchy). [/quote] So they are rotary switches ("click-click-click..."), not continuous controls? They might be passive volume controls using several fixed resistors

[quote user="burantek"] The 3 pin is the problem. It is actually used to "drive" the remaining speakers in your house. I am not certain, but if you clipped these as well and disregarded the 3rd wire, you may get something out on at least the first set of linked speakers downstream. I am just not sure and it would seem a shame to