In the early days of CD, there were a number of top loading and vertically front loading CD players that left the disc partly visible, Pioneer P-D1 as just one example. I think they may actually have been a majority during the first years! So B&O was far from being the first in this respect, but they may quite well have been the last for a while

No, preferrably not WD-40. It's great for polishing the valve covers of a V-8, though I once heard a long time service guy telling that he never uses anything but LPS-1 on potentiometers, but it looks more like the WD-40 category to me... I use Kontakt 61 myself. It should have the nice property of not leaving conductive piles of gunk behind it

Perseverance, people! This was my second repair job that took more than six months to find a spare Thanks to Jonathan, I got a new cpu module. Now the Beomaster (I had fixed power supply and power amp issues in the meantime) lights up the standby dot, turns on via Datalink and plays quite nicely. IR is still dead as are most of the front panel keys

Hi Paul, the proper connector for the FM aerial socket is a female IEC aerial plug. Any decent electronics store should carry them. Failing that, get a TV antenna cord and snap off the wrong (male plug) end. Then strip ~75 cm of the free end, separate the center conductor and the sleeve, spread them out and you have a quite competitive FM antenna. But

I have problems hearing one amp from another... but it sure isn't supposed to sound like cracking & grinding Looks like removing and reinstalling the pot would be a bit of work, not to mention dismantling it for cleaning. I'm not a big believer in contact spray but I'd try it first - if the pot started crackling from lack of use, it

Hi Dave, there should be no such thing as a 900F so I presume you mean either M or K - anyway, the chassis is the same. The dial lamps are originally type 8024, which is 6.3V, but the stereo indicator lamp is supposed to be 19V / 100 mA. A 6 volt bulb will definitely burn out there! The 47 ohm / 1W series resistor belongs there. Don't use a bulb

[quote user="vikinger"] As you already have to drill or cut the wall to get properly concealed cables, I'd have thought that embedding a motorised rod mechanism to push out and pull back the TV on its hinge would not be too great an additional issue to resolve. The difficulty, however, might be in making a mechanism that also allows the

[quote user="Peter "] Seems to be a problem with Beotech - neither Safari or Firefox are opening it! We'll look into it! [/quote] BTW the product and manual sections are currently broken as well, probably for the same or similar reason (the pages cannot load the style sheet since the server refuses the connection to that URL).

Most probably the standard issue with this type of mechanism. The lift mechanism has a small brass pin that seizes in its bushing. Search the forums, I think it was Beogram 1700 in the title of the nice thread that had an explanatory picture as well. EDIT: it was 1902 . Good luck! [quote user="BenSA"] Why I had to buy a 6th B&O turntable

The volume control potentiometer is operated by a motor via a belt! Search the forum and you should find suggestions. Apparently a new belt is really hard to come by, but people have fixed this by cutting ~5mm off the old one and supergluing it back together. Just cleaning the old belt and pulleys with isopropanol might be enough as well. Lubrication