Well, I could easily use the drivers, crossovers, ABRs (regardless of condition) and straps as I have a couple of pairs in need here but I cannot pick up in the UK and it would be a shame to break working speakers up for parts. Definitely a nice price in any case. Martin

Englisch aber genau das selbe Problem - und Lösung: http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/p/388/8329.aspx#8329 Martin

Welcome to Beoworld ! I think, I would check the processor reset circuit first. Then the power supply for stable voltage. Cracked solder joints could explain the intermittent fault so that will also have to be checked. Capacitors are to blame for many problems, also in these machines so that will be a focus point too. A capacitor kit is available. Finally

If the deck works but is to be scrapped, there will probably be someone interested in the motor/speed assembly and the signal cable as well. Maybe the tonearm with bearings and dustcover if you are not going to use any of those parts yourself. Martin

Scary. Whatever you do, don't eat it Martin

It's a black box with wires running to it and a metal arm coming out towards the rear of the Beogram that the carriage hit when parked home. Martin

Yes, the models with push-pull output stages will have more power, at least theoretically. The HiFi amplifier 608 (often referred to as Beolab 608) springs to mind, that's only a an amplifier, no tuner. Some of the later Grand Prix models and I believe also the Master Deluxe Present models also have push-pull output stages, these are complete receivers

Not very nicely put by me, I realize. I was not intending to offend the japanese but that was the only way I could think of to explain it and the tendency does seem to come from the east. In the 50's, an 8W amplifier was used for the commentator PA at a large football stadium in Copenhagen. Today, people have 20-40W or more in their car and 400W

Originally, the Dirigent had ECL86 valves in the output stage. Very often, EL84 are found mounted instead which in my opinion is a very legal and suitable substitute. Both valves have about the same power rating, around 4-4½ Watts so about that would be the rating per channel. Worth noting that these are "real" watts - not those modern

Yes, dremel'ing or drilling it out could be the only way. Martin