Thanks all of you! My major motivation is that I can't allow myself to fail - if I can't do it, no-one else is interested in them here, and so these will end up in the bin. Very sad, but that's the way the world goes today. Menahem

Rich, Very nice! The Solen caps are also my first choice for crossover rebuilds, in the budget price range. Did you choose the 450Volt version? Remember - you can always correct your mistakes on the #1 woofer when the foam fails in another 20 years - then you won't feel so bad ;-). To patch up dents in the B&O woodwork, I ask my friendly neighborhood

Hi all, Would anyone have one of these in a secret stash of vintage products? I've done 3 calibrations already using a tone generator, and got good results, but it would be so much simpler with this record. Menahem

I'm done! I checked all the diodes individually - none needed replacing. I went back over all the voltages, and all are spot-on, except one: TR11 Collector 9.5V (SM 12V). Well I racked my head, and couldn't find a reason for the discrepancy. In that part of the circuit, all resistors were fine, and the 2 Zeners were fine - double-checked. Then

Thanks Mika, But I'd really like to be sure of this from someone who has one with a cap, and can tell me what is is ;-) Menahem

On the AC motor units, there is a large transistor next to the motor - a 2N3055 - this is 0TR1 in the SM. On this transistor is a ceramic capacitor which appears to be connected between the Base and Collector. This capacitor does not appear in the SM. On the unit I'm working on, this is broken, and I cannot identify what capacitance it is. I presume

OK, I've been patiently through each transistor (including the ones Geoff mentioned), and although everyone checked OK, some were tired. Changing the following transistors produced the following results of increasing the bridge rail voltage. TR3 and TR4 - up by 0.1V TR5 and TR6 - up by 0.2V TR14 and TR15 - up by 2.7V - wow TR26 and TR31 - up by

Geoff, "You give me the impression that everything is working as designed and the machine plays a record in the way that it should, it just overheats after a short time. Can I assume that if the record starts playing and you press the raise button to pause the playing, the turntable will continue to operate and there is no overheating evident?

Hi Geoff, Thanks for the tip - I wish it would be that simple. I had checked that already, and it's fine. When the arm drops, TR4 emitter goes from 0 to 4.2V. I disconnected the TR4 collector, to remove it from the faulty rail. I pushed << and the arm moved to the set down position, and even though the solenoid could not actuate, my lamp illuminated

I'm working on a BG6000 with AC motor. The machine does play records perfectly in every way, except that it runs very hot. Because it appears to do all it's supposed to, the SM troubleshooting guide appears to be useless in this case. The voltages off the bridge (SM in brackets) are OFF 40.5 (41), ON 33.9 (35), V 23.7 (31). Yes, when the arm