[quote user="DoubleU"] My guess is that the current it takes from the receiver to feed the trigger of a Beolab is not that much. (not sure though) But of course you are right, Steve. Do not try this unless you know what you're doing! [/quote] In for example the Beolab 8000, the Powerlink power up signal goes first into a 33 kohm serires

Forget the MCPs, they are only useful with the systems they were designed for. Some odd functions might work but most will not, and after each and every keypress the MCP will be dead for a while showing you "NO CONTACT".

Any of the later handheld remote controls will work - but BC9000 isn't two-way so such a remote (BL5000 or 7000) would be mostly wasted with it. You could get a Beo4, it is still a current model and can be used with just about any B&O kit since the late '80s. But even if you do, don't get rid of the BL1000! It is still the most convenient

[quote user="Stephan"] In my opinion, the current B&O speaker setup is well positioned and there is no space to fill between Lab 5 and 9 except of the pricing as there is a massive 5k difference per speaker between the two models. [/quote] Exactly. If B&O were to introduce something above the BL5, who would want the 5's anymore

Arvo Pärt: Magnificat

Brilliant! A much better effect than I would've expected

[quote user="jgarciah"] I am having some space problems and I would like to put away some parts, like Teletex #37 or tuner&IF #38, but no way!!! it colaps :-( Any idea how we can do it? it seems the all set has a security check that controls that everything is on place. [/quote] Sort of... there is this "power fail" feature that

The door flap is connected to the arm with a tiny screw from the side, just disconnect it. However, the arm itself will eventually have to come off as well as it obstructs one screw you'll need to get at later. The screw at the rear is just an end stop, the actual adjustment is done where the arm guide screws to the bottom plate (an oblong hole

One addition about the cover: as in any unit of this form factor, it isn't actually held in place by those screws, it is the lugs they screw into. That's why the instruction says to slide them up and retighten. If you have the screws completely out already, you may have to turn the deck upside down to get the lugs to drop out of the way. Make

The DIN cord should have a plug - just pull it off... After you've done as the bottom says, you should get the cover off. The loading mechanism has a rubber belt. It may have snapped if the unit really doesn't even try to unload. The tray mechanism will probably need a clean & lube job as well and it may be just stuck. Behind the mech on