This is my first post in a long time on BeoWorld so bear with me! All B&O TVs have customer service menus which allow you to make more advanced modifications to the picture, sound and functionality. If you go into the standard TV menu where PICTURE, SOUND, CONNECTIONS etc... are shown, push RED, then GO. I can't quite remember where the option

There's a story of B&O engineers in South Africa (I *think*) finding a snake inside a BeoVision 8800 or similar.

I would not want to use a BeoLab 7-4 by itself. I'm not sure exactly what would happen, but you'll either end up listening to one channel of the broadcast, or you'll be listening to a mono 'mixdown' of the two, which can result in all sort of phasing nasties. Either way, both are definitely to be avoided. From a sonic point of view

Not sure about power output, but it's definitely better than the MX IMO. I would say it sits somewhere between the BeoVision 3 and Avant.

The cables supplied with the BeoLab 5s are digital coax. Any 75 ohm digital coaxial cable will provide far more than the 50% data-transfer required for a perfect digital signal.

For reference, choosing 'Apple TV Australia' in the PUC-Control menu as opposed to the other Apple options seems to work best. I wouldn't want to comment on the sound quality as I'm not entirely sure what codec and bitrate the 3200 uses. The Apple TV sounds acceptable off the built in analog outputs, and when using the HDMI, you'll

True multiroom capability - ie, the ability to distribute digital signals around the house, with multiple sources running at the same time. MasterLink is all well and good, and has worked brilliantly, but in the last few years, people have increasingly wanted a system which will do multiple sources, and distribute HD/surround sound. The whole idea of

If you're getting crackling at some volumes but not others when using the iTunes volume control, then it's a sign that either the 'Sound Enhancer', or iTunes 'Equalizer' are on, both of which are useless RE gain structure, and usually result in crackling volume (due to clipping - the signal reaching it's maximum volume and

FWIW, if you are only listening to CD-quality audio or less, you're best setting your Mac to 16-bit 44.1 kHz. If you're using the volume control built into your Mac, set it to 24-bit 44.1 kHz. Otherwise, I would set it to 24-bit 88.2 kHz, as this is precisely double the sample rate of CD, reducing any sort of quantization issues which may arise

I wouldn't want to run a cable such as that over those distances - you'll end up with masses of interference. Masterlink can handle it because it's a 'balanced' connection which rejects interference (you won't find professional sound engineers running un-balanced connections, EVERYTHING is balanced for this reason), but an iPod