Det forstår jeg godt, men du kan godt regne med, at hvis kurset ikke specifikt omhandler B&O, kan du ikke bruge det til ret meget. B&O har i mange tilfælde deres egne måder at gøre tingene på, og derfor ser man ofte, at et værksted har specialiseret sig i B&O eller laver enten udelukkende B&O eller

Ja, side 5-1. Men STP0 og STP9, hvor har du fundet dét ? Du skal måle spændingen over emitter modstandene i udgangene. Der skal være 10mV i hver kanal. Ikke meget mindre og slet ikke mere. Med al respekt, hvis du ikke ved hvor udgangs-forstærker kredsløbene sidder, kan/skal du ikke reparere på apparatet. Du

The fuse holders were taken apart and new clamps were mounted. The clamps came from a modern PCB-solder type fuse holder that had suitable clamps for these holders. The melted holder was ground down using a small file and cleaned off all dirt and soot. A slight discoloration is all that's left of its former misery. It's always very satisfying

The chassis seems to be in good condition but there IS some work to do; The two fuses look very sorry for themselves, let alone their holders. Both suffer drastically from oxidation and one fuse holder has even melted a bit. Not really visible in the photos, but the filter/reservoir capacitor is quite domed upwards from the end with the solder tags

The power supply chassis is first on the bench. It holds the mains transformer, the rectifier which is of the flat metal type mounted on the rear vertical side, two fuses for the valve heaters and filter and reservoir capacitors (built together into one can) as well as the associated ceramic filter resistors. Martin

Good job ! And a story not unlike that of my Grand Prix Moderne Stereo 609, which can be found in the workbench forum. Now you need to buy another ! Martin

Andy, yes and no. There are several possible scenarios. The clamps of the empty holder are extremely easily bent, almost brittle, so they could have given way by themselves, simply losening their grip of the fuse. If this is indeed what has happened, the fuse would still be somewhere inside the set, which it isn't. The fuse could have found a way

Yes, I know. So why are the Sansui ones mounted bad then, did you check their specs ? If impedance is not important, which basically is what you tell us, maybe some other parameter in the Sansui woofer specs will tell the reason for the lack of bass. Unfortunately, the specs of the original woofers are not disclosed and they don't bear a brand name

sandry, Welcome to Beoworld ! Is that a Beocenter 2100 you have ? If it is, do you need the actual electric switch or "just" the plastic knob that protrudes from the front ? Martin

Now, let's get this thing apart. A wooden frame goes around the top and down the sides, inside the cabinet. Held by a good handful of screws of no less than three different lengths, it blocks the way out for the two chassis'. It's visible in this photo, in front of the main chassis, complete with dial and all knobs and the power supply chassis