I have one , but am using it. Still available and not that expensive. Very nice piece of kit!

I would suggest a Beomaster 4400 and M100s - the BM4000 is notr as good in my opinion. The Beolab 5000 system is wonderful but is not technically as good - things did advance quite a lot in this period. Frede can probably restore you a 4400 though - he did my 4401. However if you decide to go the 5000 route, you will not be disappointed.

The originals are the easiest way to go as the cross over (such that it is!) and the cabinet will be designed around this unit.

If you are lucky, it will be some dry solder joints. If you are not used to mending TVs, take it to get it serviced - don't be tempted to give it a go as the voltages inside are lethal. Definitely worth fixing.

Seriously, don't worry about it - Just keep the lid on the beogram when not in use and clean the stylus with a brush before each play.

For the devotees of the best ever Beogram, Classic Audio have updated the Thorens part of their site . Included in this is a large picture of Frede's Beogram 3000 in red with 12" arm. Beogram 3000 Thorens decks are not that common and simply outperform any other Beogram - the bass is much more controlled and detailed - Frede has a limited number

There is a damping lever in the middle of the hinge - it is damped using some sticky fluid - this is described as Kilopoise in the service manual and a streak to either side is mentioned in the manual. Never had to do this myself but the lever is a bit sticky so there is certainly something there on mine!

I reckon it means a 900. The solid state bit rather gives a hint as to the age.

If you mean the cover which slips off the end and which is only there when not in use, no worries. If you mean the plastic end, these do fall off as the glue ages but make me feel slightly nervous as the cartridge may have had a hard life. You will also need to bear in mind the lack of this when balancing the cartridge - achieve neutral balance and

Sorry - went missing for supper! Jeff has it! Use V.Aux , not STB V.Aux. I would use the AV socket as this is RGB, the decoder socket is not.