I just finished replacing the R226 Trim Pots on the Amplifier boards. I found 100ohm Trim Pots with the same footprint as the stock ones. I used Digi-Key (DigiKey.com) part number 3352E-101LF-ND ($1.24 USD each). The legs fit perfectly in the factory holes without bending them or making any modifications. Once I replaced them and reset the milivolts

I have finally completed the LED display fix. I tried several different SMD LEDs. I started with 2.1mm X .6mm, 1.95v, 250mcd. These were so bright I quickly discounted them. I replaced them with 1mm X .5mm, 1.95v, 150mcd. These were also too bright. My goal was to find the closest matching LEDs without having to replace all the corresponding resistors

Derek Your explanation makes sense. I had broken wires at the LED side, not the pad side. I removed all of the broken LEDs from the board, so I cannot provide a picture of the broken wires. So, in my case the paste would not have worked as you explain. Gerhard

Derek, Thanks for the compliments on the picture. I love close up macro photoghraphy. I have a closeup shot of a single dew drop on a spider web. It's amazing! I thought about your suggestion on the solder paste. I'm just not sure what the wire is connected to on the LED. I wasn't sure if there was some microscopic connection. Maybe I'm

I wanted to share my picture of one of the LED segments when it still works. The total width of the LED and wire is 1.0mm. The LED by itself is .5mm. Modern LEDs have the LED and wire molded into a plastic housing which makes them much more reliable and durable.

Derek, Thanks for sharing the pictures and your painstaking repair process. I am waiting for a few more parts then I will start my rebuild. I probably have to do the same displays you did. My volume and balance are completely dead. The frequency has a few segments out. I will post pictures of the completed process. Gerhard

Derek [quote user="auric"] Gerhard: I successfully redid the entire display on my BM 8000 2 weeks ago replacing all segments with surface mount LEDs. You really need to replace all of them because there the voltage between the old and new leds don't match and more importantly because the display is strobed. The new ones are much more efficient

I am wondering what value and physical size SMD LEDs you used. I have ordered two sizes with a 2.1Vf. I would like to see your picture too. To attach a pic to a message, just reply, not quick reply, and click the "Insert Media" button. Gerhard

Here is a close up image of one of the segments with 1.7v power applied. I used a 105mm macro lens with a 36mm extension tube. The "silicone chip" is less than .5mm in diameter. The difference between the Beo LEDs and traditional LEDs is the LEDs we use now are encapsulated to prevent damage from vibration etc. The filament wire you see is

Martin, I removed the display for volume (two seven segment displays). I used a high power magnifying glass to see the existing "LEDS" on the board. These belong in a museum! I can't believe they even used these, but now it makes sense why they are so vulnerable to vibration etc. I am going to replace with smd LEDs that fit into the display's