The vast majority of viruses come in when the user visits dubious web pages with a vulnerable browser, or opens dubious emails. As long as you don't use your living room's audio system for that, you will automatically be safe for the most part... The rest are worms or other attacks that go through vulnerable services in the operating system

I'd have the lower setup, but that's simply because I hate that "triangles dripping off of things" design concept...

Well it's understandable in the sense that once they are gone, they are gone, and if you still want one after that, it will cost you... But now I remember what was so familiar with that "251"... that's what I paid for my complete remote Hope that plate will be used to fix a really bad example instead of one with a tiny bump in the

251 EURO / EYPO! Congratulations to the lucky winner Better not let the kids play with it again...

Each and every thread on Beoworld that tangents on these issues invariably ends up at TV prices and iWhatever. Whether that tells more of the Beoworld crowd or the direction that B&O should take, I dunno. I do know that if I had any friends that would come over with "their music", it would invariably be on a CD. As far as I remember, a

I still have my B&O IR analyzer on the desk, but just realized I have never used it to follow what a BM5500 does - thus, a nerdy discussion explaining the phenomenon follows The B&O IR commands consist of an optional address of the sender, and then the command. The one-way hand held remotes (BL1000 and Beo4) don't use an address, they just

You're right there can be complications, mostly with older products. Obviously they need to be controllable by the Beolink 1000 standard, so older products like BM5000 are completely out (unless you have the converter box which is made from unobtanium). I have a BM5500 which does not talk back to my BL7000, although it works 2-way with a MCP6500

It is very difficult to add new cabling inside tubing that is already there (unless they are straight and/or sewage pipe caliber...). Usually there are enough bends and obstructions from the old cabling that the only possible way is to use some old cable to pull in a new one in place of it, and even that can get very frustrating. If possible, build

I remember one (or perhaps two) members repolishing aluminum CX's... they looked very good, but nothing like the original. Wish I remembered the thread or the author(s). It was anyway a lot of work and you'll obviously lose the stripes. Unless they look very bad or have already been destroyed by sanding attempts, I'd leave them alone...

I played a little bit more with mine. You can do PANEL -> SETUP -> MOVE to "MANUAL" (remember to STORE as well). Then, you can do the now familiar PANEL -> MOVE to get it to lie down. Wait for the timeout (or select OFF) and it will play dead. Now, when you tap it, it doesn't stand up and invite me to blah blah blah but works