Nice to see Beoworlders help eachother ! One note though; If you swap the whole mech. section, you will have to re-adjust practically all settings in the whole machine. Levels, Bias etc. It will all be different with the new tapehead(s). Martin

Alastair, welcome to Beoworld ! A bit confusing as B&O have used the same name for two different products... Do you have the Beolab 5000 active speakers of the late 1980's or the Beolab 5000 stereo amplifier from the 1960's ? Martin

That goes for me too, Keith ! Martin

Menahem, I have repaired so many of these machines, I've lost count, and never ran into problems regarding any of these issues. You will have to explain a bit for me to understand your motivations for re-designing and I would like to comment a little on your post as well. First, you wrote: "... the drastic shutdown protection-circuit can be

René, Welcome to Beoworld ! I am not familiar with the Haes drivers so I'm afraid I cannot advice. You can measure their DC resistance and compare to those in the other cabinet but it would be a bit strange if all midranges in one cabinet had gone bad at the same time. Yes, a cap kit is available. PM me for details, but try to locate the

Welcome to Beoworld ! Yes, there are adjustments through the bottom plate. One for each speed. There is also a fingerwheel at the rear facing edge of the front panel - not obvious to all owners unless they read the user manual. If the adjustments won't allow for correct speed, they are probably bad and will need replacing, it's quite common

I can supply new belts and motor if that's any help to you or the next owner. Martin

Not a simple machine to work on if you are not an experienced tech guy, and even if that. Check all solder joints, especially at the board connectors. Check that the continuity of the interconnects between the display and processor boards are all fine. Essential signals pass through some of them (not only display signals). Replace electrolytic capacitors

You cannot use just any 7-pin cable for a Beogram. Original B&O cables are often marked either "TP" or "PH" and/or labeled with the part number. Aftermarket cables are usually not. The difference is indeed the shielding. A Beogram needs to have both the signal ground and the chassis (protective) ground carried through (separately

Cracked solder joints are quite common for things that are moved around a lot, that includes these remotes. Recently, I have also had a couple of cases where the LED driver transistor was bad. Martin