Does the bulb light if you select the tape input? - if not, you need to look at the socket. They often corrode to the point of not making contact any more. If the bulb lights with other sources but not on FM, does it still play the radio in stereo (i.e do you hear any difference if you work the mono button)?

[quote user="M."]Do you think it could be caused by the 'bubble foil', replacing that is not near as expensive (+-€25) as changing the circuit board. Or does it really sound like a problem of the circuitboard?[/quote] That's really difficult to say unfortunately, but if the bubble foil seems damaged, I guess it could cause

That chip carries the same signal that goes to the power amps. If the Beomaster plays fine by itself, there's nothing wrong there. After that, the preamp outputs are essentially a resistor and an RCA socket. There really isn't a lot that can go wrong, apart from the sockets having broken solderings. Not unheard of, but I would concentrate on

[quote user="vikinger"]If an error occurs in the I²C bus system which makes the TV go into stand-by every time it is attempted to be switched on, it is possible to switch on the TV in such a way that the error is ignored:[/quote] However, DO NOT DO THAT unless you know what you are doing! That mode bypasses the internal protection circuits

To me many of them seem like odd appendices slapped on existing ideas. Like the split BV4 with a propeller. Less would be more... The mobile phones remind me of Nokia's unorganized lineup from the early 2000's, when every team had to implement their own idea of an unusable keyboard. And so does the remote: But anyway, I like watching stuff like

[quote user="Machiel"] After removing the batteries, the display turns off directly. [/quote] Hmm... that symptom sounds like the remote might actually keep transmitting, as if a button was stuck down. Look at the LEDs with a cell phone camera to confirm that they go off when you aren't pressing any button. I don't think replacing

I think you have an intermittent contact in the battery holders. When you fiddle with the batteries, they briefly make contact, charge the buffer caps in the remote, and they have enough power reserve for a command or two. Notice how the display stays on for ages even after the batteries have been removed, until you press a button and the transmitter

Tired caps is the only systematic fault I have heard of. Otherwise the boards have very little to fail. Mk.I runs on i8049 and the II/III apparently both on 80C52. None of these are particularly sensitive to ESD but careless handling can undoubtedly kill all of them.

Replace the large electrolytics on the display board before deciding that you need another one.

I didn't want to flip my 6500 upside down to take a pic, but the feet are round and rather small - perhaps 10 mm in diameter and only about 2 mm in height. They are very near the corners of the bottom plate and probably snap into round holes. They seem like hard plastic rather than rubber, or perhaps they just turn that way in 20 years... I think