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ARCHIVED FORUM -- April 2007 to March 2012
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This is the first Archived Forum which was active between 17th April 2007 and
1st March February 2012
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There are two types of ac motor found in the 4000 (I am not aware of more) one of them I think can be pulled apart the other cannot without drilling even then I am I wouldn't risk it. Either way you can get oil to both top and bottom bearings which is the major issue with the servo motor - you can't really access either bearing, one is completely
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Hmmm personally I would be a bit skeptical. If you ask me I would bet that is the motor making the noise and perhaps by adding a bit of tension (you can see that the original was loose) this has temporarily resolved the issue. It is up to you really. See how it runs without the belt if it is relatively quiet then I guess it could be left. I personally
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I have not come across anything like this but if you PM Martin (member Dillen) he most probably has and will be able to give you further guidance.
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Have you looked at ztx 451 / 551? Regards the 212 not sure what you have in the states but try a google search for equivelents...?
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Hi Jacques the thing is many of these are much the same, so no guarrentee your replacement will be any different! I think this is one part that could do with a retooling - I thought about a brass collar like you find with Mecanno stuck to original nylon pulley, if you could get it to stick!
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These transistors are not all that critical at all I use ZTX types for the bridge high current / voltage (1A / 65V but NOT 1A @ 65V lol) in a tiny package and very similar specs to the old transistors! Bc212 can be purchased new. If you are in the states then you need a 2n equivelent possibly. Try Google Search. I agree with Blackrix above Littlediode
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Happy Christmas Everyone hope all have a wonderful time :)
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If you want to blow your ears (and possibly speakers) to kingdom come then by all means give it a go
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Regarding the speakerlink get some single cored shielded cable and an old 8 pin din plug. Remove pins from said plug solder shield to one pin and the core wire to the other apply some liquid plastic insulation stuff then plug them straight into the two holes data holes of the speaker link sockets. You can then knock up an audio lead from the pre-amp
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Any life from the tuner at all? i.e. stereo light / balance lights working any sort of noise? Rich's offer is very kind although I would hold back from a cap replacement until things work but that is me!